This Month's Feature
The Jura and Savoie, eastern France
July 2010
The Jura and Savoie wine regions are two of the least known in all France, due in part to their location, tucked away in the east, near the Swiss border, on the north and south, respectively, of Lac Leman. The winemaking traditions here have not been lost to commercialism or globalised taste trends; each of their villages seems to have their own speciality, if not their own varietal. It’s often said that wines from these regions are the closest in style to those enjoyed in Shakespeare’s time. Like pearls, the wines’ beauties require effort to discover and understand - once gained, however, appreciation for them continues to grow and sharpen, sometimes into an obsession.
The Jura is commonly called ‘the region of the back-mountain’. It lies just to the east of Burgundy, and shares its two main varietals, Chardonnay (the Jura’s most planted grape) and Pinot Noir, along with 3 native grapes, Savagnin (white), Poulsard and Trousseau (both red). Its long rolling hills rest in a graben which is similar to but far less dramatic than that of Alsace. A dizzying collection of wine is made here, which also contribute to the difficulty of understanding the zone: Crémant (sparkling), still white, still red, vin jaune, vin de paille, and Macvin. The vin jaunes hold the key to the Jura’s uniqueness; like the wines of Jerez (sherry), and many of the Jura’s still whites (including the Montbourgeau below), it’s elaborated in cask under a thin veil of yeast known as voile, or flor, giving the fermented juice a long and complex relationship to the oxygen which builds above it - it can be recognized in the finished wine by a pronounced nutty flavor and aroma, and developing hints of mushroom, cumin and coriander spice. It’s an acquired taste which provides great rewards to the wine lover. The red wines from the Jura are of nearly uniform lightness; all are marked by strong acidity and low alcohol, as well as curiously ‘sharp’, lean flavors.
To the south of Lac Leman, the Savoie is a resolutely Alpine region - its steep cliffs and twisty roads hide a series of medieval villages and ancient wine traditions. Here, the indigenous Jacquères varietal is king - it produces wines whose racy character, snappy acidity and zesty minerality echo the Alpine air into which the vines reach. Thicker-skinned Roussette and Roussanne vines (white) are also planted here, the latter showing best in the area of Chignin-Bergeron. A handful of red varietals are also grown here, including Mondeuse, Gamay, and Poulsard.
Just to the west of the official Savoie AOC lies the VDQS zone of Bugey, from whose three remaining crus come three remarkable wine styles: Jacquères/Chardonnay still wines, Roussette sparkling wine, and, in the cru of Cerdon, a rosé sparkling blend of Poulsard and Gamay produced by method ancestrale, according to which no yeast is added for secondary fermentation; instead, the wine is initially fermented to 6% alcohol, then lightly filtered to remove most of the living yeast, leaving just enough to finish the fermentation in the bottle at 7.5-8%, retaining a bit of sugar and an extremely fresh, juicy impression. It’s a rare, ancient way of making sparkling wine which we’re excited to present below, along with 3 others, providing a panoramic view of these two wine regions, jewels of France.
Alain Renardat NV Bugey Cerdon, Ain (Savoie) $9 gls • $4.50 tst • $38 btl
This rare, semi-sweet, rosé sparkling wine is cheerful, charming, and, at 7.5 % alcohol, utterly quaffable; it’s ideal for hot-weather patio drinking. Made from Poulsard and Gamay, partially fermented in the bottle after a light filtration, it shows nearly crimson in the glass; a delicate fizz teases the palate as flavors of wild strawberry, bing cherry, and a touch of rhubarb develop as quickly as your smile.
André et Michel Quenard 2007 Jacquères, Chignin, Savoie
$8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl
Michel Quenard, having taken over the family estate from his father André, is recognized as the leading winemaker in the southern Savoie cru Chignin, where he crafts a brace of stunning wines from Jacquères and Roussanne. This bottling, his freshest and most mouthwatering, provides plenty of evidence for the claim that Jacquères is the ‘Muscadet of the Alps’. Its crisp acidity and evident, dry salinity is beautifully balanced by flavors of extremely ripe white peach and
clementine-driven citrus.
Domaine de Montbourgeau 2006 Chardonnay, L’Etoile, Jura $11 gls • $5.50 tst • $48 btl
Nicole Deriaux at Montbourgeau blends this Chardonnay with a touch of the local, thick-skinned Savagnin varietal, and ages it briefly under a veil of yeast in wooden casks to produce an unmistakeably ‘Jurassien’ finished wine which yet shows remarkable singularity. Thanks to its unique oxidative contact in barrel, it bears some resemblance to a fino from Jerez on the nose; aromas of walnut, cumin, and licorice lead to a distinctly nutty, savory, full-bodied palate marked by dark mushroom and honey crisp apple, while the persistent acidity makes this a superb ‘food wine’.
Jacques Puffeney 2006 Poulsard, Arbois, Jura $13 gls • $6.50 tst • $55 btl
This is my favorite single wine just now! It’s very light ruby in color, almost like a rosé, but don’t let that deceive you - as
I’ve noted elsewhere, in the glass, this achieves a complexity worthy of Burgundy’s finest. Cinnamon and game, persimmon and smoke, ripe blackberry and daikon are just a few of the flavors that combine here to relentlessly stimulate the palate. This is a wine of raw beauty, with a killer acidic cut - don’t miss it - it’s amazing with the duck!
Jura and Savoie Flight
a two ounce serving of each of the wines above
$20.50
The Jura and Savoie wine regions are two of the least known in all France, due in part to their location, tucked away in the east, near the Swiss border, on the north and south, respectively, of Lac Leman. The winemaking traditions here have not been lost to commercialism or globalised taste trends; each of their villages seems to have their own speciality, if not their own varietal. It’s often said that wines from these regions are the closest in style to those enjoyed in Shakespeare’s time. Like pearls, the wines’ beauties require effort to discover and understand - once gained, however, appreciation for them continues to grow and sharpen, sometimes into an obsession.
The Jura is commonly called ‘the region of the back-mountain’. It lies just to the east of Burgundy, and shares its two main varietals, Chardonnay (the Jura’s most planted grape) and Pinot Noir, along with 3 native grapes, Savagnin (white), Poulsard and Trousseau (both red). Its long rolling hills rest in a graben which is similar to but far less dramatic than that of Alsace. A dizzying collection of wine is made here, which also contribute to the difficulty of understanding the zone: Crémant (sparkling), still white, still red, vin jaune, vin de paille, and Macvin. The vin jaunes hold the key to the Jura’s uniqueness; like the wines of Jerez (sherry), and many of the Jura’s still whites (including the Montbourgeau below), it’s elaborated in cask under a thin veil of yeast known as voile, or flor, giving the fermented juice a long and complex relationship to the oxygen which builds above it - it can be recognized in the finished wine by a pronounced nutty flavor and aroma, and developing hints of mushroom, cumin and coriander spice. It’s an acquired taste which provides great rewards to the wine lover. The red wines from the Jura are of nearly uniform lightness; all are marked by strong acidity and low alcohol, as well as curiously ‘sharp’, lean flavors.
To the south of Lac Leman, the Savoie is a resolutely Alpine region - its steep cliffs and twisty roads hide a series of medieval villages and ancient wine traditions. Here, the indigenous Jacquères varietal is king - it produces wines whose racy character, snappy acidity and zesty minerality echo the Alpine air into which the vines reach. Thicker-skinned Roussette and Roussanne vines (white) are also planted here, the latter showing best in the area of Chignin-Bergeron. A handful of red varietals are also grown here, including Mondeuse, Gamay, and Poulsard.
Just to the west of the official Savoie AOC lies the VDQS zone of Bugey, from whose three remaining crus come three remarkable wine styles: Jacquères/Chardonnay still wines, Roussette sparkling wine, and, in the cru of Cerdon, a rosé sparkling blend of Poulsard and Gamay produced by method ancestrale, according to which no yeast is added for secondary fermentation; instead, the wine is initially fermented to 6% alcohol, then lightly filtered to remove most of the living yeast, leaving just enough to finish the fermentation in the bottle at 7.5-8%, retaining a bit of sugar and an extremely fresh, juicy impression. It’s a rare, ancient way of making sparkling wine which we’re excited to present below, along with 3 others, providing a panoramic view of these two wine regions, jewels of France.
Alain Renardat NV Bugey Cerdon, Ain (Savoie) $9 gls • $4.50 tst • $38 btl
This rare, semi-sweet, rosé sparkling wine is cheerful, charming, and, at 7.5 % alcohol, utterly quaffable; it’s ideal for hot-weather patio drinking. Made from Poulsard and Gamay, partially fermented in the bottle after a light filtration, it shows nearly crimson in the glass; a delicate fizz teases the palate as flavors of wild strawberry, bing cherry, and a touch of rhubarb develop as quickly as your smile.
André et Michel Quenard 2007 Jacquères, Chignin, Savoie
$8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl
Michel Quenard, having taken over the family estate from his father André, is recognized as the leading winemaker in the southern Savoie cru Chignin, where he crafts a brace of stunning wines from Jacquères and Roussanne. This bottling, his freshest and most mouthwatering, provides plenty of evidence for the claim that Jacquères is the ‘Muscadet of the Alps’. Its crisp acidity and evident, dry salinity is beautifully balanced by flavors of extremely ripe white peach and
clementine-driven citrus.
Domaine de Montbourgeau 2006 Chardonnay, L’Etoile, Jura $11 gls • $5.50 tst • $48 btl
Nicole Deriaux at Montbourgeau blends this Chardonnay with a touch of the local, thick-skinned Savagnin varietal, and ages it briefly under a veil of yeast in wooden casks to produce an unmistakeably ‘Jurassien’ finished wine which yet shows remarkable singularity. Thanks to its unique oxidative contact in barrel, it bears some resemblance to a fino from Jerez on the nose; aromas of walnut, cumin, and licorice lead to a distinctly nutty, savory, full-bodied palate marked by dark mushroom and honey crisp apple, while the persistent acidity makes this a superb ‘food wine’.
Jacques Puffeney 2006 Poulsard, Arbois, Jura $13 gls • $6.50 tst • $55 btl
This is my favorite single wine just now! It’s very light ruby in color, almost like a rosé, but don’t let that deceive you - as
I’ve noted elsewhere, in the glass, this achieves a complexity worthy of Burgundy’s finest. Cinnamon and game, persimmon and smoke, ripe blackberry and daikon are just a few of the flavors that combine here to relentlessly stimulate the palate. This is a wine of raw beauty, with a killer acidic cut - don’t miss it - it’s amazing with the duck!
Jura and Savoie Flight
a two ounce serving of each of the wines above
$20.50
