Websters Wine Bar

Wine List


BY THE GLASS - PINOT NOIR

  • Bertrand Ambroise 2007 Bourgogne Rouge, France $9 gls • $4.50 tst • $38 btl

Sourced in the Côte de Nuits, mostly from Nuits-St.-George fruit (a commune known for its robust Pinot Noirs), and made by the talented, energetic former mayor of Premeaux-Prissey, Bertrand Ambroise, this wine is a lovely surprise: it’s very fresh and classically Burgundian on the nose, showing sweet cherries alongside a brush of rainwashed wood and alfalfa; the palate is quite layered – keen textures are tucked into a soft, almost smooth feel, framing flavors of mint, light pink peppercorn, and black cherry.


  • Black Star Farms 2007 Pinot Noir, Suttons Bay, Michigan
    $10 gls • $5 tst • $42 btl

This amazing Pinot Noir was handcrafted by Lee Lutes, a good friend and a thoughtful winemaker; every year, his wines from Black Star (located just north of Traverse City) are more well-knit and satisfying. This 2007 is a touch fuller-bodied than the 2006, but it remains true to its cool-climate home: flavors of rhubarb, orange-pekoe tea, bing cherry, and a shade of juniper lead to a cool, medium-acid finish that makes a joy out of drinking local!


  • Brooks 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $8.50 gls • $4.25 tst • $35 btl

Since the sad passing of our great friend Jimi Brooks – francophile, chef, committed biodynamicist and Russian lit fanatic – in 2004, we’ve been happy to watch the eponymous estate he pioneered continue on as he would have wished, with his buddy Chris Williams at the helm. I could not be happier with this 2007 Pinot – low in alcohol (12.4) and high in acid, it’s showing a brisk, cheerful, even playful panoply of fruit – I totally taste persimmon, red grapefruit, pomegranate juice, and a shade of spicy cinnamon. Thanks, Chris!


  • Pinot Noir Flight $13.75

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


BY THE GLASS - RED - CAB & MERLOT

  • Benziger 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, California $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

Classic Sonoma Cabernet from the passionate Mike Benziger; its rich body shows strong cassis and black cherry fruit alongside very flavorful, chewy tannin, herbal eucalyptus and patchouli, and a cedar-driven woodsiness.


  • Cabernet & Merlot Flight $17.50

A two ounce taste portion of each of the four wines above


  • Casa Silva 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile $6 gls • $3 tst • $26 btl

Round and fairly succulent Chilean Cab, whose nose of jalapeño and fresh-cut tobacco leads to a palate of rich cassis, dark earth, and shades of raspberry preserve. Firm tannin on the finish gives the whole a very complete and assured texture.


  • DeGrendel 2005 Merlot, Durbanville, South Africa $9 gls • $4.50 tst • $38 btl

Very cool South African Merlot, sourced near the Cape of Good Hope and the Atlantic Coast. This shows a different side of Merlot, with wild raspberry and red fruits (as opposed to Merlot’s classic plummy blue profile), and a solid structure of highly integrated tannin. There’s a tasty herbal note here as well, somewhere between white sage, patchouli, and giardinaire.


  • Walla Walla Vintners 2006 Merlot, Walla Walla, Washington $12 gls • $6 tst • $52 btl

One of the best Merlots in the United States, perhaps the world – a real benchmark for Washington State – this shows a powerful, rich minerality of iron ore and granite, alongside dark cassis, sweet pipe smoke, and a layered, inky finish.


BY THE GLASS - RED - EUROPEAN CLASSICS

  • Cantalupo 2004 Nebbiolo ‘Agamium’, Colline Novaresi, Italy $7.50 gls • $3.75 tst • $32 btl

I visited Dr. Alberto Arlunno, the winemaker for Cantalupo, at his northern Italian estate last fall – it’s in the town of Ghemme, near the Swiss Alps - and was wowed by the integrity and quality of his wines. This ‘Agamium’ bottling is one of the most approachable Nebbiolos you’ll taste – it’s actually a great spring wine – filled with fresh roses and cardamom and just-picked blackberry and more


  • Château de Tiregand 2005 ‘Grand Millésime’, Pécharment, France $10 gls • $5 tst • $42 btl

2005 was an amazing vintage for Bordeaux; its quality is best seen, I believe, not in the 1st growths, but in the smaller Bordelaise satellites like Pécharment, which sits high up in the forest country west and south of the right bank AOCs of St. Emilion and Pomerol. Mostly Merlot, this wine is only made in special years (ergo, ‘Grand Millésime’), and is showing a wonderful depth of character thanks to above-average ripeness: roasted game, dark chocolate, sour cherry and chicory.


  • European Classics Flight $13.25

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


  • Lopez de Heredia 2002 ‘Viña Cubillo’ Crianza, Rioja, Spain $9 gls • $4.50 tst • $38 btl

Few wineries in the world possess the passion, pedigree, and commitment to tradition of Lopez de Heredia; every wine they make is utterly pure and alive. I’m thrilled to be able to offer their ‘Cubillo’ by the glass again. This 2002 shows terrific acidity – it’s quite assertive, although lean on the whole – and overt, yet well-defined fruit flavors of fresh cherry and date.


BY THE GLASS - SPARKLING WINE

  • Françoise Bedel NV ‘Dis, Vin Secret’, á C. sur Marne, Champagne $18 gls • $9 tst • $78 btl

A biodynamic marvel, this unique blend of 96% Pinot Meunier and 4% Chardonnay, made with zero dosage (i.e. no added sugar, therefore more pure and dry) is a personal favorite: mirabelle, hazelnut, gentle creamy textures, racy acidity, and much more.


  • Louis de Grenelle NV Brut Rosé, Saumur, Loire Valley, France $8.50 gls • $4.25 tst • $36 btl

All Cabernet Franc, this dry, refreshing rosé is the ideal summer sparkling wine. It has a beautiful pink watermelon color, a heady, persistent mousse, flavors of juicy, fresh-picked raspberry and a note of blood orange. New to Chicago, this is a real delight.


  • Raventos i Blanc NV ‘L’Hereu’ Brut Cava, Penedes, Spain $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

Family-owned, estate-bottled Cava of such fantastic complexity, it makes most others taste like fermented water. A blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parallada, this shows bright lemon and lime, rich Gala apple, and welcome notes of freshly baked bread. Marvelously crafted, delicious Cava - one of the best you’ll taste, at any price.


  • Sparkling Wines Flight $17.25

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


BY THE GLASS - SPICY REDS

  • Caparone 2003 Zinfandel, Paso Robles, California $8 gls • $4 tst • $35 btl

The Caparone family runs a tiny estate in California’s central coast; they own some of Paso’s oldest Zin vines, and have never compromised their traditional winemaking techniques for the sake of fashion. Unfined and unfiltered, this wine shows a great deal of integrity along with a very classic Zin profile, from when it was Cali’s quaffing wine par excellence: lower alcohols, tense acidity, bright spicy raspberry fruit, a note of blackberry jam and dusty iron, and a tangy finish.


  • Massaya 2006 ‘Classic’, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

A very suave, sexy wine from the talented Ghosn brothers, Sami and Ramzi, this 2006 blend of Cinsault, Cabernet and Syrah might be their best vintage yet. I sense more olive and tarragon flavors underneath a classic nose of clean sandstone and freshly zested mandarin orange; strong pomegranate flavors develop on the palate, along with spicy black pepper and mustard powder.


  • Mitolo 2006 ‘Jester’ Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia $9 gls • $4.50 tst • $38 btl

This savory, heady wine is a classic example of McLaren Vale Shiraz; while packed with flavors of black raisin, licorice, late-harvest plum, white pepper, malty milk chocolate, and sour cherry, it keeps its balance with clean, supple textures – thanks to partial barrel fermentation, it has a very smooth finish, marked by a note of vanilla cream.


  • Spicy Reds Flight $12

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


BY THE GLASS - SUMMER REDS

  • Domaine de la Noblaie 2005 Chinon, Loire Valley, France $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

This may be the single best Chinon I’ve ever had. It comes from a single plot (called ‘Chiens-Chiens’) which has been famous for its outstanding quality for centuries. After a long fermentation, and extra time in bottle, this just-released ‘05, all Cab Franc, reflects its local chalky terroir with delicious precision – it keeps expanding on the palate – it’s hard to settle on single adjectives here, but you’ll taste a whole range of flavors, from tangy sour cherry to (herbal) rhubarb to carob; the dry finish, long and fine, is like a Henry James sentence.


  • Emilio Bulfon 2006 ‘Pecòl Ròs’, Venezia-Giulia, Italy $10 gls • $5 tst • $42 btl

Emilio, a visionary winemaker, is kind of hero of ours; his project is to reseach and rehabilitate ancient, nearly forgotten varietals in his home area, the far northeast corner of Italy, and from them, craft exotic, idiosyncratic, top-quality wines. This superb wine comes from a legendary single site (‘Pecòl Ròs’), and, as in ancient times, is a blend of Piculit-Neri, Forgiarin, Cjanòrie, and Refosco. It’s like nothing you’ve ever tasted before – dark blackberry on the nose, slick tannin, inky body with sexy textures – just awesome with bacon.


  • La Posta 2006 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

From the Angel Paulucci vineyard, this is a juicy, round-shouldered Malbec which, after classic violet and lilac aromas, teases the palate with fresh fig and ruby-red grapefruit flavors, before finishing softly, with a hint of gingerbread and nutmeg spice.


  • Spring Reds Flight $12.50

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


BY THE GLASS - WHITE - AROMATIC WHITES

  • Aromatic Whites Flight $11.50

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


  • Brooks 2006 Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

Jimi Brooks was a great friend; after his sudden passing, his friends in Oregon have continued his vision at the winery – we’re very happy to share the new vintage of their dry Riesling. Jimi thought it was the best white varietal for Oregon, and this ’06 shows why: happy to share the new vintage of their dry Riesling. Jimi thought it was the best white varietal for Oregon, and this ’06 shows why: the aromatic nose reminds one of acacia and jasmine, while the palate, with taut acidity, broadens into honeysuckle and pear.


  • Martin Schaetzel 2006 Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

Martin is a passionate advocate of the biodynamics he practices in all of his vineyards. For its remarkable schist and iron minerality, this, his terrific 06 Gewurztraminer, speaks clearly of its place. It’s medium-sweet, with notes of mandarin orange preserve and this, his terrific 06 Gewurztraminer, speaks clearly of its place. It’s medium-sweet, with notes of mandarin orange preserve and fresh clementine, yet it’s also spicy, with just-crushed anise seeds and a shade of white pepper. Terrific!


  • Stefano Bellotti 2004 ‘Filagnotti’ Gavi, Piedmont, Italy $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

This biodynamic wine is the best in its zone; all Cortese, it shows fresh gardenia and rose aromatics on the nose, while the textured palate, fine and filigreed as semolina and couscous are, reveals flavors of lemon, fresh meringue and cream soda. The acidity is strong and refreshing, yet its body has a tight knit, leaving a cool impression of density and weight.


BY THE GLASS - WHITE - CHARDONNAY

  • Catena 2005 Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina $7.50 gls • $3.75 tst • $32 btl

This remains Argentina’s best, boldest Chard; it’s generously oaked, with bold flavors of cream and caramel, yet the acidity is fairly focused throughout. Its fruits lie on the tropical side, with maraschino cherry, pineapple, and a touch of fig.


  • Chardonnay Flight $10.50

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


  • Foxglove 2006 Chardonnay, Edna Valley, California $6.50 gls • $3.25 tst • $28 btl

A fresh California Chard, filled with red-skinned apple flavors, a brush of crushed peanuts and very light oak; 3-6 months. A crowd-pleasing, second-label wine from Varner, one of the Central Coast’s best winemakers.


  • Lavantureux 2002 Chablis, France $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

2002 was an incredible year for eastern France; it’s a pleasure to return to it in the form of this stately Chablis. This is fairly serious wine – its nervous acidity has completely settled down into flavors of dried Turkish apricot, threads of pine smoke, dates, and rich yellow apple cobbler. Palate-coating on the whole, it has a lift of acidity on the finish that keeps it moving and alive.


BY THE GLASS - WHITE - CLASSIC WHITES

  • Alois Lageder 2006 Pinot Grigio, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

From one of Alto Adige’s most renowned biodynamic estates, I believe this is Italy’s very best Pinot Grigio. Its seamless texture carries a wide range of flavors along lines of lateral intensity; young mango, dried ginger, a note of lime, and an acidity notable for its grip.


  • Classic Whites Flight $11.75

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


  • Hippolyte Reverdy 2004 Sancerre, Loire Valley, France $8.50 gls• $4.25 tst • $36 btl

This tangy Sauvignon Blanc comes from one of the best winemakers in Sancerre, and it’s all about its place and vintage; it’s just ripe, meaning strong acidity and serious refreshment. Flavors of white peach, pink grapefruit, and sugar-snap pea combine with softer tones of acacia and wild strawberry leaf toward the chalky, palate-enlivening finish.


  • Leitz 2006 Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, Germany $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

Wonderfully balanced, with a delicious juicy sweetness, this 06 ‘Dragonstone’ bottling, from the single-vineyard Rüdesheimer Drachenstein site, made by the charming, gym-bag-forgetter Johannes Leitz, is one of his best ever. Palate-coating fleshy pear and quince flavors compete with bright acidity, shades of lime blossom and a hint of sweet cassis.


BY THE GLASS - WHITE - SUMMER WHITES

  • Ameztoi 2007 Txakoli, Getariako Txakolina, Basque Country $8 gls • $4 tst • $34 btl

¡Hay Txakolina! Let the warm weather begin – it’s been a long winter, and we’re thrilled share our favorite wine of joy and affirmation in a new season. As always, a blend of indigenous varietals, Hondurrabis Beltza and Zurri, made to retain its crisp sparkle from porrón to glass to lips, bringing flavors of lime, kiwi, soda bread, lemongrass, and the spirit of the sea. (To be poured from high aloft.)


  • Marc Ollivier 2006 ‘Clos des Briords’ Muscadet, Loire, France $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

Marc puts more thought and effort into his Muscadets than anyone; this wine, from a single plot, all Melon de Bourgogne, organically farmed, spent many extra months on its fine lees, and it shows in the layered, dynamic textures, surprising to find in a wine this fresh and bright. A classic spring/summer wine, with very juicy pear flavors, which, toward the satisfying finish, shades into apricot and peach.


  • Skouras 2007 Moscofilero, Peloponnese, Greece $7 gls • $3.50 tst • $30 btl

George Skouras is one of the most innovative and engaging winemakers working today – he’s brought the Peloponnese into the international wine scene almost single-handedly. Pink-skinned Moscofilero is the #1 white varietal of the region, and one of the very best for spring and summer, carrying flavors of white grapefruit, mandarin orange, tea-tree and lavender – don’t miss it!


  • Spring Whites Flight $11

A two ounce taste portion of each of the three wines above


CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING - NON VINTAGE

  • Arnaud Margaine, Brut, Villers-Marmery Premier Cru $65 btl

Sexy family fizz, whose incredible range of flavors is due to its wide blend of reserve wine, reaching back to 1994. Crisp lime and green apple flavors become plush and tropical on the mid-palate, lengthening to a finish of refreshing sage and mint.


  • Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’, Aÿ $75 btl

A classic; rich and stylish, with authoritative mousse and assertive petillance. Its late-harvest peachiness balances nicely against flavors of vanilla liqueur, opulent gala apples, and hazelnut – the finish is particularly fine.


  • Deutz ‘Classic’, Aÿ $70 btl

A lighter, more floral style, with fresh geranium, cool white nectarine, a gentle mousse and a touch of yeast on the structured finish.


  • Henriot ‘Souverain’, Reims $82 btl

A clean and powerful blend of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, showing intense white peach, a note of meringue, and ripe nectarine flavors in a lithe, muscular body of very tight bubbles and elegant mousse.


  • Philipponnat ‘Cuvée Royale’, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ $85 btl

Assertive and well-balanced, with ripe yellow apple, a touch of red currant, a touch of baking spice, fresh bread, and strong acidity.


CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING - OTHER

  • Bisol 2006 ‘Crede’ Prosecco, Valdobbiadene, Italy $38 btl

A fairly rare, single-vineyard Prosecco from one of Valdobbiadene’s best houses, this has a strong sparkle that thoroughly cleanses the palate, along with keen flavors of nectarine, cream soda, and fresh oranges.


  • Bründlmayer 2001 Sekt, Kamptal, Austria $65 btl

The best sparkling wine east of Champagne, in my opinion. This blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, made in the traditional method, has bright ripe orchard fruits in a delicate envelope of light toast and yeastiness, with a terrific, brisk mousse. Outstanding - a handpicked favorite.


  • Emilio Bulfon 2005 Sciaglin Frizzante, Venezia-Giulia, Italy $42 btl

One of the world’s most exotic and arresting sparkling wines, made from the impossibly rare, native Friulian Sciaglin varietal. Flavors of tamarind and anise hyssop, cashew and clementine develop through a soft body and bright mousse.


  • Gramona 2000 ‘Imperial’ Gran Reserva Brut, Penedes, Spain $48 btl

Another marvel from the magicians at Gramona, this Xarel-lo/Macabeo/Chardonnay blend spends 4 years on the lees, and receives a gentle dosage of French liqueur: the effect of these 2 procedures is extremely harmonious. Full-bodied tropical fruits and tapioca flavors play against a fresh, floral nose - it’s showing a light, soft acidity and relaxed mousse; its feel on the palate is strong and assured.


  • Gruet NV Blanc de Noirs, Albuquerque, New Mexico $35 btl

Nothing shy here: this is a classic US sparkling wine, beloved for its bold raspberry flavors and shadings of cream and brioche. Juicier than most, with a fairly high degree of petillance, a zesty mousse, and a mouthfilling finish.


  • Huet 2000 Vouvray Pétillant, Loire Valley, France $60 btl

A wine of utter purity from one of the world’s leading biodynamic estates, with fresh bosc pear, pearly bubbles, the barest shade of fresh croissant, notable fennel and jasmine notes, and a limpid, elevated finish.


  • Juvé y Camps 2003 ‘Reserva de la Familia’ Brut Nature, Cava, Penedes, Spain $28 btl

A very refined, family-estate, limited production Cava, whose delicate, persistent acidity never quits. Lime blossom, crisp forelle pear, vanilla cream soda, tonic, a note of sassafrass, and gentle pétillance.


  • L. Mawby NV ‘Cremant’ Brut, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan $40 btl

Single-vineyard, hand-picked, small-production, 100% Vignoles (!) which spends its first fermentation in small oak barrels, and undergoes its second in the Champagne method. Low yeast, light toast, fresh pears, ripe kiwis and an exciting mousse combine beautifully.


  • Murgo 2004 Nerello Mascalese Brut, Mt. Etna, Sicily $42 btl

This is an extremely rare wine to find in the States, a work of opalescent beauty from Etna’s rugged, forbidding slopes. All Nerello Mascalese, crafted in the Champagne method (2nd fermentation in bottle), its first impression of racy, active, delicate bubbles slowly Mascalese, crafted in the Champagne method (2nd fermentation in bottle), its first impression of racy, active, delicate bubbles slowly gives way to a plush texture on the palate, marked by flavors of kiwi, lime blossom, a note of cherry, and very light yeast.


  • Von Buhl 1999 ‘Forster Pechstein’ Riesling Brut Sekt, Pfalz, Germany $50 btl

Stunning German sparkling - this vintage, single-vineyard Sekt explodes with crisp pear, notes of kiwi and papaya, and hints of cinnamon and apricot, all contained in a delicately lacy, tantalizing mousse. Its bright, focused acidity gives it a terrific drive.


CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING - ROSE

  • Gramona 2002 ‘Gran Cuvee’ Rosé Cava, Penedes, Spain $70 btl

Deeply memorable, handcrafted Cava, whose rich complexity keeps shining long into the night. A rarity for Penedes, this is vintage, rosé, and 100% Pinot Noir, showing a distinctive scarlet color and ripe raspberry fruitiness. This has a shimmering petillance rosé, and 100% Pinot Noir, showing a distinctive scarlet color and ripe raspberry fruitiness. This has a shimmering petillance of tiny bubbles, a mousse of surprising persistence, a powerful, vanilla-toned mid-palate, and a lovely citrus note on the end.


  • J. Lassalle NV Rosé Brut, Chigny-les-Roses Premier Cru, Champagne, France $100 btl

Delicate, finessed rosé w/a pale salmon color, fresh raspberry and sun-dried tomato and a touch of spice. A Wine Bar fave.


  • Marguet Père et Fils NV Rosé Brut, Ambonnay, Champagne, France $70 btl

One of the very best tiny-production rosé Champagnes. Strawberry and cream, with a touch of velvety violet, along with pungent bing cherry flavors in the middle of a rich mousse that’s deliciously slow to develop.


  • Mionetto NV ‘sergio’ Rosé, Valdobbiadene, Italy $45 btl

Very rare, artisinal Italian rosé, made from a blend of Lagrein and Raboso del Piave. This is stunningly clean and fresh and intense: darkly colored, with flavors of wild raspberry, éclair-ey cream and a note of tangy rhubarb on the long, dry finish.


  • Veuve Cliquot 1989 ‘Grande Dame’ Rosé Brut, Reims, Champagne, France $360 btl

A superstar, highly-prized rosé with terrific impact, richness, and build; raspberry, white chocolate, and much more.


CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING - VINTAGE

  • Jean Milan 2000 ‘Cuvée Terres de Noël’ Blanc de Blancs, Oger Grand Cru $115 btl

Another Thiese selection, a genius whom I can’t help but quote here; this wine is, “symphonically ‘green’ with an explicit and systematic interplay of silvery mineral and juicy lees. . . a masterpiece of charm and complexity.” A premier Côte de Blancs.


  • Krug NV ‘Grande Cuvée’, Reims $200 btl

A powerhouse of a Champagne - this wine is incredibly full-bodied and expansive on the palate, with intensely concentrated ripe fruit flavors and forward notes of toast, vanilla, and spice, the result of fermentation in small oak barrels. The flavors keep going and going, ending with refreshing citrus, honey and spice.


  • Salon 1985 Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil $500 btl

After 10 years on the lees, and over 10 years in bottle, this masterpiece shows the type of muscularity and grace that Michelangelo imagined; aromas of golden raisin, white truffle, lemon and quinine lead to a very fine palate of truly remarkable length.


NEW ARRIVALS-DESSERT WINE

  • 1998 La Spinetta ‘Oro’ Muscat Passito, Piedmont, Italy [500 mL] $45


  • 2002 Kracher #5, Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese ‘Zwischen den Seen’ Neusiedlersee, Austria [375 mL] $120


NEW ARRIVALS-RED

  • 1996 Caparzo ‘Ca del Pazzo’, Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy $70


  • 1998 Villa Giada, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Piedmont, Italy $35


  • 2002 Cantele, Salice Salentino Riserva, Puglia, Italy $28


  • 2004 Sam Tannahill, A-Z Wineworks’ ‘Night and Day’, Southern Oregon $30


NEW ARRIVALS-ROSE

  • 2006 Château de Trinquevedel , Rosé, Tavel, France $32


  • 2006 Mas de la Deueze, ‘Sarabande’ Rosé, Côtes du Roussillon, France $26


  • 2007 Ameztoi, Txakoli Rosé, Basque Country $36


  • 2007 Château de Trinquevedel , Rosé, Tavel, France $35


  • 2007 Domaine les Aphillanthes, Rosé, Côtes du Rhône, France $28


NEW ARRIVALS-WHITE

  • 1986 Leth ‘Scheiben’ Roter Veltliner, Wagram, Austria $125

The very rare Roter Veltliner grape is built to age, only coming into its own after 20-30 years in bottle. This is dry, bracing, soy; coriander and papaya seed and ghostly tannin.


  • 2002 Domaine de Beaurenard ‘Boisrenard’ Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Southern France $130

A tiny-production, luxury cuvée of six white varietals on 100 year old vines, this is the benchmark Chateauneuf blanc.Distinctly full-bodied, this flatters the palate with a waxy, creamy envelope of nutty honeycomb, from which a set of tropical flavors - young guava, pineapple, and plantain - slowly develop, along with a powerful acidity.


  • 2003 Castello di Lispida ‘Amphora’ Tokai, Veneto, Italy $140

One of the world’s white wine treasures, this is harvested from a tiny 1 1/2-acre plot at almost no yield, farmed by the radically non-interventionist principles of Japanese philosopher Masanobu Fukuoka. It ferments and ages in underground stone clean line and absolute purity bring Raphael to mind. 2,000 bottles made.


  • 2005 do Ferriero, ‘Cepas Vellas’, Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain $60

Gerardo Mendez sources this from a 2-acre plot of the oldest vines in Rias Baixas, all over 200 years old, and vinifies with indigenous yeast to preserve the integrity of the site in the finished wine. It’s one of the most remarkable whites you’ll taste: the rind of a blood orange, café au lait, fresh croissant, poached pear, sea salt, and more. . .


RED - ARGENTINA

  • 2003 Susana Balbo, ‘Brioso’, Mendoza $80

Serious, stately Bordeaux blend, with very powerful fruit that leans into a gathering finish of dry, focused tannin


  • 2004 Luca, Syrah, Mendoza $55

Argentina’s top Syrah, and perhaps South America’s: it’s huge, sinewy and rich, with tobacco-smoke, wild raspberry & spice


  • 2004 Tikal ‘Jubilo’, Mendoza $90

A giant, lip-smacking, unctuous Bordeaux blend, finely balanced; dried plum, coffee; this is what Napa wants to make . . .


  • 2005 BenMarco, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza $34

Pedro Marchevsky’s best Cab to date - wonderfully complex and textured, with lean cassis, mahogany-smoke, and more


  • 2005 BenMarco, Malbec, Mendoza $40

Fairly electric, really, with a sage & violet nose, keen, higher-acid blue fruits, and a finish of quick, flashy tannin


  • 2005 Catena, Malbec, Mendoza $35

Catena’s best vintage, showing violet perfume, tangy black cherry, a note of oak, and a perfect measure of tannin on the end


  • 2006 La Posta ‘Cocina’, Mendoza $28

A terrific, lean Bonarda/Syrah/Malbec blend, very Bordelaise on the palate, only with more kick and juiciness and acidity


  • 2006 Susana Balbo, Malbec, Mendoza $48

A benchmark wine for the varietal, this has dark violets, fresh figs, and wild strawberry, leading to sudden, lengthy tannins


RED - AUSTRALIA

  • 1998 Parker Coonawarra Estate ‘Terra Rossa First Growth’, Coonawarra $120

An Australian classic, whose intense cassis, cocoa, mineral, spice, and mint elements have developed beautifully


  • 2002 Frankland Estate, Shiraz, Isolation Ridge Vineyard, Frankland Region $45

From a remote zone south of Margaret River, this is decidedly Rhône-esque, with a rustic gaminess and peppery spice


  • 2002 Vasse Felix, Shiraz, Margaret River $54

Cooler-climate Shiraz with a wide array of bold flavors: pepper, blackberry, graphite, cardamom, and a rather fresh finish


  • 2003 Tim Adams ‘The Fergus’ Grenache, Clare Valley $30

Lean, tasty Aussie Grenache, with olive brine, tarragon, wild strawberry, and more. The finish is brisk and lively.


  • 2004 Glaetzer, Shiraz, Barossa $114

Big, funky, Madvillain-ey Shiraz, showing inky, volcanic minerals, dark chocolate, toasted, salted pistachio & a savory end


  • 2004 Henry’s Drive ‘Reserve’ Shiraz, Padthaway $98

One of the top 5 Australian wines for its texture and sophistication: rich and spicy and heady, with balanced alcohol


  • 2005 Bowen Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra $50

Eucalyptus and mint and chicory-toned, chewy/bitter tannin all over - in other words, a classic, smoky Coonawarra Cab


  • 2005 Kooyong ‘Massale’ Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula $52

From Oz’s cool, windy southern tip, this is one of the country’s top 3 PNs, with persistent acidity and excellent grip


  • 2006 Torbreck ‘Juveniles’ Barossa $38 [Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro]

A favorite every year for its tangy flavors of licorice, blackberry, bittersweet chocolate, and a finish of complete acidity


RED - AUSTRIA

  • 2004 Heinrich, Pinot Noir, Burgenland, Austria $38

A sage and shiitake mushroom side has gracefully slipped into this wine with time, complementing the tangy fruits


  • 2004 Heinrich, St. Laurent, Burgenland, Austria $54

Deeply memorable, this electric St.Laurent really gets your blood going; lean sour cherry, ripe blackberry, & cool spices


  • 2004 Lehrner ‘Claus’, Blaufränkisch/Zwiegelt, Burgenland, Austria $30

Yay! It’s great to offer this light-bodied, spot-on, rosy-cheeked blend again; its edgy fruits seem to ripen on the palate


  • 2004 Neckenmarkt, Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria $26

Mcdium-bodied, ‘beginner’s Zwiegelt’, with cool caraway spice alongside dark violets, a touch of fig, and dark plum


  • 2005 Lehrner, St. Laurent, Burgenland, Austria $55

Stately and elegant, with a bit more ripeness than most: sweet plum and dried apricot, and notes of ginger and agave


  • 2005 Zantho, St. Laurent, Burgenland, Austria $26

Great acidity and a very light body; sweet cherry fruit balanced with a touch of bitter endive and macadamia nut


  • 2006 Sattler, St. Laurent, Burgenland, Austria $30

Sappy and very fruity and relentlessly cheerful, with power & spice & soul; tangy cranberry, fresh dates, even nectarine


  • Meinklang 2006 Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria
    $30

I was utterly wowed by this wine at a recent tasting. From one of Austria?s two completely biodynamic wine estates, this is amazingly pure, showing flavors of rhubarb, maple, oak leaf, fresh black cherry, and much more. Don?t miss it!


  • Umathum 2005 Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria $36

One of the best Blaufrakisches I've ever had - really stunning - edgy tamarind, ground nutmeg, cloves - juicy fresh figs and a bit of date - white pepper - cleansing acidity, serious mid-palate tannin - shapely feel - outstanding!


RED - CHILE

  • 2004 Alvaro Espinoza ‘Antiyal’, Maipo $88

One of the world’s leading biodynamic wines, this bold, spicy Carmenére/Syrah/Cab blend shows dark herbs and cassis


  • 2004 Apaltagua ‘Envero’ Carménere, Colchagua $28

Blended w/15% Cab Sauv., this gutsy, earthy Carménere shows great structure beneath jalapeño pepper and plum


  • 2005 Cono Sur ‘20 Barrels’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo $45

Classic eucalyptus nose, not overly herbal, and a very smooth palate of clean blackberry; one of Chile’s very best Cabernets


  • 2005 Errazuriz ‘Max Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Aconcagua $35

Edgy Cab with plenty of cut, showing dark pipe smoke, vanilla bean, serious tannin, a volcanic note, and solid fruit


  • 2005 Montes ‘Alpha’ Syrah, Colchagua $42

A benchmark Southern Hemisphere Syrah, with bright, plummy fruit, cool peppery spice, and very relaxed tannin


RED - FRANCE - BORDEAUX - LEFT BANK

  • 1994 Château Cos d’Estournel, St. Estèphe $170

Simply outstanding - full bodied, rich, with notes of berries, cedar and tobacco that fill the palate, with a long finish


  • 1994 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac $185

Beautifully alive! Surprisingly silky & suave on the finish, with pomegranate seed, mirabelle, and cedary tannin(26 June 06)


  • 1996 Château Batailley, Pauillac $180

A benchmark 96, whose bold cassis flavors belie a dazzling restraint; with fresh-turned gravel and slow-smoked meats


  • 1997 Château Cos d’Estournel, St. Estephe $160

Another top ‘97, this has power and concentration with an approachable, supple character - ripe, round, complex, & long


  • 1997 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac $100

Has big aromas of deep, ripe plums and blackberries with notes of mineral, tar, spice - rich and full yet soft & smooth


  • 1997 Château Gruaud-Larose, St. Julien Grand Cru $150

Great balance with ripe cherry and cassis fruit, layers of tobacco and spice, with a ripe, supple texture and a long finish


  • 1997 Château Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville, Pauillac [750ml]- $100 , [in magnum]- $200

A ripe, accessible Pichon with rich fruits, hints of cocoa, earth, minerals, and spice with a long, rich, soft finish


  • 1997 Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac $295

A perennial powerhouse, this is one of the top 1997’s of Bordeaux - rich, concentrated, complex, and a very long finish


  • 1998 Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac $275

Another great wine, it has big, gripping tannins and dense, concentrated flavors with layers of complexity - a wine to keep


  • 2000 Château de Fieuzal, Pessac-Léognan $88

My notes read: ‘spine-tinglingly perfect.’ (23 Oct 06) A marvelous, mineral-driven wine of exceptional clarity and finesse.


  • 2001 Château les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan $105

Outstanding purity and vividness; a favorite ‘01 for its finessed cedar and earth, seamless palate feel, and sheer juicy goodness


  • 2002 Château Rauzan-Segla, Margaux $120

Its delicacy and slow evolution make this a classic Margaux: light pomegranate, gravel, a hint of smoke, gorgeous acidity


RED - FRANCE - BORDEAUX - RIGHT BANK

  • 1997 Château Angelus, Grand Cru Classé, St. Emilion $200

A top right-bank wine of the vintage, this is concentrated and powerful, with dark, loamy earth, notes of iodine and dates


  • 2000 Château Croix de Gay, Pomerol $115

A dark horse chateau of ‘00 whose palate of rich blue clay is crossed with explosive ripe red fruits and notes of mahogany


  • 2000 Château Gazin, Pomerol $165

Adjoining Petrus, Gazin is always a fave; this ‘00 may be their best wine ever. Chewy mocha/almond/clay/plum goodness.


  • 2001 Château Grand-Pontet, Grand Cru Classé, St. Emilion $85

Taut as a strung bow, this lean and focused wine shows wild raspberry leaf tea, nettle, plum, and supremely tasty tannin


  • 2002 Château Canon la Gaffelière, Grand Cru Classé, St. Emilion $125

Generous, nearly plush, this shows deep, dark, chewy, cedary fruits, then, w/big torque, lifts up w/great acid for a long finish


  • 2005 Château Teyssier, Grand Cru, St. Emilion $55

From a great year, this bold St. Emilion shows lovely dark carob, fleshy violet, lower tannin, and an unctuous finish


RED - FRANCE - BURGUNDY - COTE CHALONNAISE & BEAUJ

  • 2004 Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru ‘Clos de la Servoisine’ $75

Classic Joblot, w/ a firm core of intense cherry and tangy cranberry, a touch of oak and spice and a keen, powerful finish


  • 2005 Domaine du Clos Salomon, Givry Premier Cru Monopole ‘Clos Salomon’ $60

It’s the finish that stands out here, of steady acidity, which picks up as the ripe cassis & cranberry compote fruit falls away


  • 2005 François Raquillet, Mercurey $38

From a great year in the Chalonnaise, this is fresh and lively, with bright cherry, a note of strawberry, and great acidity


  • 2006 Chateau Thivin, Beaujolais-Villages, Côte de Brouilly $28

Do not miss this clean, vivid, lip-smacking wine; great acid, black cherry, blue-granite & slate minerality, and a happy finish


RED - FRANCE - BURGUNDY - COTE DE BEAUNE

  • 1991 Camille Giroud, Beaune ‘Greves’ $105

A superb wine from a warm, underrated year, this shows rosehips and smoky black cherry and a shade of pistachio


  • 1997 Edmond Cornu, Ladoix ‘Le Bois Roussot’ $42

Relaxed & rather soft, with a great hazy garnet color, and flavors of young cherry, walnut, a note of fennel, and black tea


  • 1998 Domaine Rossignol, Volnay Premier Cru ‘Chevret’ $75

A stunning Volnay that has focused, bright plum and cherry fruit with integrated oak and light spices and a long finish


  • 1999 Domaine Coste-Caumartin, Pommard Premier Cru ‘Les Fremiers’ $65

Produced by an excellent domaine, family-run since 1793, this is showing shiitake and fresh game and notes of cassis


  • 1999 Domaine Rossignol, Volnay Premier Cru ‘Les Roncerets’ $70

Pure, refined, focused, and flavorful - a big, concentrated wine of exceptional balance - great fruit, oak, spice & finish


  • 1999 Jean Boillot, Volnay Premier Cru ‘Les Fremiets’ $100

A classic Volnay with framboise, ripe red berry fruits, hints of rose, a touch of spice, and pure, silky fruit on the finish


  • 2001 Comte Armand, Auxey-Duresses $65

From a year I’m really starting to dig, this carries a levity and persistence that stays with you well after the bottle is empty


  • 2001 Prince Florent de Merode, Pommard ‘Clos de Platiere’ $62

Powerful, top-notch ‘01 Pommard; its succulent black cherry flavors and bold acidity pair nicely with a truffled earthiness


  • 2002 Domaine Chantal-Lescure, Pommard ‘Les Vignots’ $75

Darkly expressive, silky Pommard, showing dark violet, tangy plum, juicy fig, and a powerhouse finish of surprising tannin


  • 2004 Vincent Dancer, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘Le Grande Borne’ $90

From a concentrated, rich beginning, this slowly becomes leaner and more alive, with mirabelle, limestone and violet


  • 2005 Joseph Voillot, Pommard , Vieilles-Vignes $85

As genial and robust as the winemaker, this is a muscular, angular wine with bing cherry seed and lavender & big acidity


  • 2005 Maison Champy, Beaune, Vieilles-Vignes $55

Rich, dark and focused, with giant cherry flavors and good tannin, yet with a playful heart that keeps you coming back


RED - FRANCE - BURGUNDY - COTE DE NUITS

  • 1988 Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Vosne-Romanée Grand Cru ‘Romanée-St.-Vivant‘ $475

Noted for its power and grace with layers of fruit and spice under developed aromas of cedar and primal rock and big length


  • 1998 Claude Dugat, Gevrey-Chambertin $100

Another dark, concentrated, powerful Dugat with cassis, a touch of herbs and spice, and a rich, powerful & long finish


  • 1999 Domaine François Lamarche, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru ‘Les Suchots’ $75

A powerful wine whose dark, tannic, spicy character lets flashes of fresh violets, ripe kirsch, and bright acid shine through


  • 1999 Dujac, Morey St-Denis Premier Cru $155

A masterpiece - this wine is powerful and concentrated with pure fruit yet graceful and refined with an unending finish


  • 2000 Domaine Michel Gros, Chambolle-Musigny $90

Dark, rich Chambolle, showing roasted chestnut, woodsy mushrooms, a touch of game and bold, ripe fruits


  • 2002 Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-St.-Georges $78

From a favorite domaine, this is very pure and very young; let its smoky blackberry and mirabelle flavors unwind in the glass


  • 2002 Domaine Henri Perrot-Minot, Morey St.-Denis ‘En la rue de Vergy’ $115

Amazing Morey; its savory, palate-coating fruit slowly, gracefully harmonizes with high-pitched primal rock; a new favorite!


  • 2002 Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin $75

One of the very best ‘02s, of unmatched purity and polish, this is ready to drink now, w/ bright cherry & great acidity


  • 2002 Philippe Naddef, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles-Vignes $90

Philippe’s firm, masculine style is tantalizingly balanced by the perfectly ripe fruit of 2002; one of his best ever


  • 2003 Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot, Vosne-Romanée $140

A seductive Vosne made of ermine and velvet; the essence of ripe dark cherry, iron, layered tannin, and powerful minerality


  • 2004 Robert Chevillon, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru ‘ Les Bousselots’ $135

This wine takes my breath away - such pure Burgundy is hard to find - earthy mushroom, iron, elevated black fruits


RED - FRANCE - LOIRE VALLEY

  • 2002 Clos Rougeard ,‘Les Poyeux’ Saumur-Champigny, Loire $100

One of the top reds in all of France. Vinified organically from a single plot of 40-60 year old vines, partially fermented in


  • 2005 Catherine et Pierre Breton, ‘Les Galichets’, Bourgueil, Loire $32

Punchy, biodynamic Cab Franc with a ton of blueberry and black cherry, along with a cobbler-esque, satisfying finish


  • 2005 Charles Baur, Pinot Noir, Eguisheim, Alsace $30

Wonderfully ripe expression of Alsace PN; bing cherry, a note of pomegranate, leafy wild strawberry, and more


  • 2005 Château Gaillard, Saumur, Loire $34

Vibrant, tangy, keen, mineral-driven Cab Franc from a killer biodynamic estate; cranberry, plum skins, tuffeau & gravel


  • 2005 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, ‘Cuvée Alouettes’ Bougueil, Loire $28

The best vintage I’ve had of this always-charming wine; it has a bit more funk & swagger, yet remains innocent & pure


  • 2006 Damien Laureau, ‘Clos Fremur’ Anjou, Loire $30

Deep, almost brooding, with sour cherry, pronounced tannin, graphite/volcanic minerality: a baby Pomerol, really


RED - FRANCE - NORTHERN RHONE

  • 1997 Paul Jaboulet ‘Les Jumelles’, Côte-Rôtie $105

Fairly intense, with opaque color & lots of herbs - giardenaire, oregano - alongside game, spicy cumin and a note of cassis


  • 1998 Paul Jaboulet ‘La Chapelle’, Hermitage $175

Ten years out, this is just starting to blossom, showing licorice, spicy raspberry, iron & granite minerality, and much more


  • 1999 Belle Pere et Fils, Hermitage $94

A classic for its purity and concentration; ultra-ripe raspberry and cassis balanced against bacon, game, and peppery spices


  • 1999 E. Guigal, Côte-Rôtie: La Mouline / La Landonne / La Turque $350

We have 1 bottle from each of these legendary vineyards, from one of the Rhône’s best-ever vintages;incredible poise & depth


  • 2001 Bernard Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie $86

A gem. Very rare; 8 barrels for the world! All Syrah. Giant gamey aromas. Lacy violet/apricot flavors. Stunning acidity.


  • 2001 Domaine Courbis ‘Les Eygats’, Cornas $84

Super-sexy, elegant, developing Cornas with rich, autumnal aromas, pure framboise and violets, and a soft finish


  • 2001 Patrick Jasmin, Côte-Rôtie $90

From a great year, this is as complex as the ‘00, but bigger, with more body, integration, and heat; the flavors last forever


  • 2005 Domaine Combier, Crozes-Hermitage $46

Starts out soft and gains lift through the palate; medium tannin, elegant spice, strong blue and black fruits, even finish


  • 2005 J. L. Chave ‘Offerus’, St.-Joseph $60

J-L is successfully redefining St.-Joseph. This is terrifically intense and pure: smoke, iron, game, nettle, and a finessed end


  • 2005 J. M. Gerin ‘Champin le Seigneur’, Côte-Rôtie $120

Deep ruby color; classic aromas of lavender, cumin, and wet red earth; velvety, flattering textures; keen tannic grip


  • 2006 Yves Cuilleron, Syrah, Vin de Pays de Collines Rhodaniennes $38

Pitch-perfect! From north of Côte Rôtie, this is a light-bodied wine, really; all expression - spice and grip and movement


RED - FRANCE - OTHER REGIONS

  • 2001 Marcel Deiss, Pinot Noir, Burlenberg, Alsace $70

Talk about relentless - jeez - this rarity will make one very strong: crushed pumice-stone, carrot & ginger & beet & tannin


  • 2002 Albert Boxler, Pinot Noir, Niedermorschwihr, Alsace $64

Convincing earthiness and stuffing, with a smoky nose, dark cherry, talc and chalk minerality, and a very long finish


RED - FRANCE - SOUTHERN RHONE

  • 2001 Domaine de la Charbonniere ‘Cuvée Vieilles Vignes’, Châteauneuf-du-Pape $98

Whew - this shows gutsy, peppery spices, dark truffles, lots of bold raspberry, hints of lavender, tar, and shades of cedar


  • 2003 Château la Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape $80

For its lean - almost delicate! - and spicy expression, I was shocked this came from the torrid 03 vintage. A real delight.


  • 2003 Domaine Cayron, Gigondas $46

Delectably old-fashioned, decidedly not rustic, with black olives, blackberry, notes of bacon & powdery spice, and low alcohol


  • 2003 Domaine Durieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape $46

Rich, dark Chateauneuf, with baking chocolate, spiced orange peel, ripe black raspberry, and woodsy, chewy tannin


  • 2004 Domaine de Beaurenard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape $75

My vote for the most elegant and traditional CdP around, with tangy cedar, spicy pepper, and perfectly ripe cassis flavors


  • 2004 Montirius, Vacqueyras $48

Wonderfully pure, biodynamic Vacqueyras, with tamarind & white pepper spice, a whiff of pipe smoke and a lean finish


  • 2005 Catherine le Goeuil ‘Lea Felsch’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Cairanne $40

A new Rhône classic, this biodynamic wine warms the heart with smoky arbequina olive, game, raspberry, and more


  • 2005 Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Champauvins’, Côtes du Rhône-Villages $30

Round-shouldered on the whole, this shows a keen tangy quality at its core: piquant spice, autumn leaves, cedary tannin


  • 2005 Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras $65

Stunning. My favorite vintage yet. Earth & ink & wet black rock & peppercorn & cut & edge & a punchy lift on the end


  • 2005 Jérôme Gradassi, Châteauneuf-du-Pape $60

A gentle giant, with soft, chewy tannins - toffee and carob-covered raisin and espresso bean - and dried fruits on the finish


RED - FRANCE - THE SOUTH

  • 1999 Domaine de Trevallon, Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone $75

The best Vin de Pays?! An artisinal mix; gingerbread, mulberry, cedar, currant and raspberry flavors lead to a luscious end


  • 2000 Chateau Pradeaux, Bandol $60

Bolder acidity than you’d think, w/wild strawberries, a note of game & sourdough, & a big grip leavened w/soft tannin


  • 2000 Château Redortier, Beaumes-de-Venise $46

Yes, a BdVrouge - it’s showing a terrific balance between a light, nearly refreshing body and more rustic country flavors


  • 2001 Chateau Valcombe ‘Les Griottes’, Côtes-du-Ventoux $26

Sweet fresh strawberry fruit plays against a soft, marjoram-scented spice, leading to a cheerful, bright finish


  • 2001 Château de Lascaux ‘Les Nobles Pierres’, Pic-St.-Loup, Languedoc $32

A staff favorite, this expresses its soil with beautiful flash and drive, along with lots of black licorice and wild apricot


  • 2001 Domaine Ott, ‘Romasson’, Bandol $88

Whoa; strap yourself in for this gutsy, spicy, impeccably balanced Bandol; Galoise smoke, roasted meat, pure griotte . . .


  • 2003 Château Laffitte-Teston, Madiran $30

Outstanding Tannat; full-bodied, with flavorful, chicory/espresso tannin, ripe raspberry, and a delectable wild side


  • 2003 Domaine d’Aupilhac ‘Les Cocalieres’, Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc $58

Gutsy, spicy, more modern style Languedoc, showing seared shiitakes, a touch of roasted coffee, coconut & dried cherry


  • 2004 Château d’Or et des Gueules ‘Bolida’ , Costières de Nîmes $55

Mostly Mourvedre, this is supple, dark, and rich, with tasty mocha-laced gingerbread, raspberry, and fresh olive


  • 2004 Domaine du Gros’Noré, Bandol $48

A chewy, meaty Bandol, with lower spice and raspberry, and more carob and ink and raisin and oak and a rich, unctuous end


  • 2004 Domaine Etxegaraya, Irouleguy $35

A DionysianTannat/Cab Franc blend hailing from the Basque countryside, whose light body is filled with endless spice


  • 2005 Mas Champart, Vin de Pays d’Oc $30

Mostly Cab Franc (!), this favorite shows dense tannin, nutmeg and white pepper spice, a hint of rosemary, and more


RED - GERMANY

  • 2004 Friedrich Becker, Pinot Noir ‘B’, Pfalz, Germany $54

Terrific impact and suavity, w/the vivid fruits and electric palate feel of a top St.Laurent; dark cherry, cola, and sassafrass


  • 2004 Heger, Pinot Noir ‘Estate’, Baden, Germany $38

Lean, luscious, light-bodied Pinot, with notes of cranberry and young plum, notes of pomegranate and a high-acid finish


  • 2004 Meyer-Näkel, Pinot Noir, Ahr, Germany $58

A personal favorite for its rich, exotic Indian spices, mahogany textures, bright red fruit, and long, refreshing finish


  • 2005 Fürst, Pinot Noir ‘Tradition’, Franken, Germany $54

Outstanding torque here: starts simple and clean, then turns darker and more complex, w/ rhubarb, black cherry & mocha


  • 2006 Gunderloch, Pinot Noir, Rheinhessen, Germany $32

Light-bodied, very appealing German Pinot, with fresh tart plum and bing cherry, and notes of cola and spice


  • Gunderloch 2006 Pinot Noir, Rheinhessen, Germany $32

Very light bodied, very flavorful Pinot Noir, showing tart plum and bing cherry, alongside notes of smoky cola and a cool white pepper spice. A new classic.


RED - GREECE

  • 1998 Porto Carras, Limnio, Halkidiki Peninsula $26

Fairly mushroomy and woodsy, with wild blackberry and a note of eucalyptus, yet medium-bodied on the whole


  • 2003 Gerovassiliou ‘Avaton’, Epanomi $84

A stunning Limnio/Mavroudi/Mavrotragano blend - it’s like a Bandol in a cool year - inky, earthy, limpid, rich & long


  • 2003 Karydas, Naoussa $45

A gift to the wine lover, this is a perfectly complete Xinomavro: light-bodied, with rosehips, black tea, and a high-acid finish


  • 2003 Pavlidis, Drama $40

Very ripe Limnio-led blend in whose firm, dry structure black tea meets cassis liqueur, tobacco leaf, and lean plum


  • 2003 Skouras ‘Megas Oenos’, Nemea $45

Supple Aghiorghitiko/Cab Sauv. blend w/an Aristotelian balance of sweet black fruits, grilled meats & peppery spice


RED - ITALY - OTHER REGIONS

  • 1999 Adanti, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Umbria $68

Sagrantino is a favorite Italian varietal; tannic and edgy and high-acid, with caraway, rosehips, black cherry and tar


  • 2000 Taurino, Salice Salentino, Puglia $28

This famous Negroamaro shows bright cherry, sweet spices, a touch of tar, and a soft, relaxed, toffee-toned finish


  • 2001 Terredora diPaolo, Taurasi, Campania $75

Classic Taurasi, drinking great right now, showing chicory, jicama, volcanic minerality, licorice, black cherry, and more


  • 2002 Fattoria le Terrazze ‘Planet Waves’, Marches $160

Bob Dylan helped make this 1-time only Montepulciano/Merlot blend; it comes smokin’ down the track w/a dark heat


  • 2002 Rainoldi ‘Sassella’ Riserva, Valtellina Superiore $54

All Nebbiolo, this delicate, complex northern gem shows sweet cola beans, rosepetal, coconut, vanilla, and a high-acid grip


  • 2003 Arnaldo Caprai, Montefalco Rosso, Umbria $45

From Italy’s 2006 Winemaker of the Year (Gambero Rosso), this Sagrantino-heavy blend is both brooding & superclean


  • 2003 I Portali, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata $26

A southern gem from Greg Smolik, this is supple and smooth, with black licorice, fennel, light olive brine notes, and more


  • 2004 Cantine Ceci, Lambrusco ‘La Luna’, Emilia $28

This dry, serious, black-cherry & gravel-filled Lambrusco is the best I’ve ever had: it begs for prosciutto & fig & cheese


  • 2004 Cusumano ‘Sàgana’, Butera, Sicily $48

Superlative Nero d’Avola from a single south-facing slope of pure white earth: tamarind, baking chocolate & so much more


  • 2004 Fattoria Cabanon, ‘Cuoredivino - Botte 18’ Oltrepo Pavese $55

A life-affirming blend of Bonarda, Barbera & Cab Sauv. with a sexy texture & perfect balance; dates, game, black cherry


  • 2004 Tenuta della Terre Nere ‘Guardiola’, Mt. Etna, Sicily $80

A very serious and delectable Nerello Mascalese, with palpable volcanic soil, powerful tannin and bold cassisey fruits


  • 2004 Tenuta di Trinoro ‘Passopiciaro’, Mt. Etna, Sicily $70

A dazzling tre-bicchieri Nerello Mascalese; sinewy body, iridescent fruit, pumice, black earth, and an unforgettable grip


  • 2005 COS ‘Pithos’, Vittoria, Sicily $68

A lithe, agile biodynamic wine, fermented in terracotta amphoras, resembling the legendary wines of ancient Carthage


RED - ITALY - PEIDMONT - BAROLO

  • 1994 Manzone, Barolo [in magnum] $95

Precise and expressive, with just-picked white morel mushroom, sage, sweetgrass, a hint of lavender, and pinpoint acid


  • 1997 Bruno Ceretto, Bricco Roche ‘Brunate’, Barolo $145

A classic Barolo from a great vintage, vineyard, & producer - big, powerful, focused yet refined and complex - amazing


  • 1997 Molino ‘Vigna Gancia’, Barolo $85

Extraordinarily rich minerality - limestone, even clay - sets this apart; big, bold flavors of dark truffles, inkiness and tar


  • 1998 / 1997 / 1996 Borgogno, Barolo Riserva $100

A wine of kings, made in enormous old casks to age forever: dark cherry, toasted pomegranate, fresh chestnut, herbs


  • 2000 / 1999 / 1997 / 1995 Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo $200

Bartolo (1926-2005), a Barolo legend, was Piedmont’s greatest ethicist and traditional winemaking advocate; his daughter, Maria Theresa, shares his passion. To taste a Mascarello is to learn to perceive what Barolo can be.


RED - ITALY - PIEDMONT - BARBARESCO

  • 1996 Sottimano ‘Vigna Brichet’, Barbaresco $70

Tea and tar and violet show strongly here, with lighter secondary flavors of fresh strawberry and pomegranate seed


  • 1997 Bruno Ceretto, Bricco Asili ‘Faset’, Barbaresco $125

Another awesome Faset - deep berry, tobacco, plums, grilled meat, with rich texture and a big, flavorful finish. Bravo!


  • 1998 Bruno Ceretto, Bricco Asili ‘Faset’, Barbaresco $125

A favorite Barbaresco - concentrated and powerful yet full of ripe fruit, delicate aromas, and a supple texture


  • 1998 Sottimano ‘Vigna Brichet’, Barbaresco [in magnum] $175

Brichet is one of Sottimano’s best sites; this shows vivid wild cherry, angular minerality, and a gamey-ness on the end


  • 1999 Bruno Ceretto, Bricco Asili ‘Faset’, Barbaresco $1 40

The vertical continues. This 99 is my favorite: it’s ready to drink, w/a Muhammad Ali-esque litheness and agility(9 Apr 07)


  • 2001 Cascina Bruciata ‘Rio Sordo’, Barbaresco $85

Perfectly pitched Barbaresco: rosehips, fresh-crushed anise, arugula, medium tannin, high acid, and an elegant finish


RED - ITALY - PIEDMONT - OTHER

  • 1996 Antoniolo ‘Vigneto Castelle’, Gattinara $60

Superb; keen and filigreed, with dark rosepetal, shades of iron, ripe pomegranate, shades of currant, and powerful acidity


  • 1998 Malvira’ ‘San Guglielmo’ Langhe $46 [Barbera/Nebbiolo/Bonarda]

An unctuous perfume of fresh coffee beans leads to chicory and raspberry preserve flavors, a slight inkiness and sage


  • 1999 Elio Altare ‘Larigi’, Langhe $140 [Barbera]

One of the finest wines this Piedmont legend has ever made; violets, chicory, wild cherry, truffles, and much more


  • 1999 Ferrando ‘Etichetta Bianco’ Carema $60

Expansive on the palate; begins tart and pretty, and quickly gathers enormous force: perfectly balanced throughout


  • 2003 Cantalupo, Ghemme $65

From my favorite Ghemme producer - a very kind family - this polished wine sharpens the palate and quickens the heart


  • 2003 Monchiero Carbone ‘Monbirone’ Barbera d’Alba $40

Amazing impact for a Barbera; after edgy, plummy, cedary acid at the start, it comes back to slowly coat the palate at the end


  • 2003 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia ‘Ca Veja’ Nebbiolo d’Alba $40

One of the most complete younger Nebbiolos, with a great range: black raspberry, licorice, med. acidity and a dry end


  • 2004 Proprietà Sperino ‘Uvaggio’, Lessona $60 [Nebbiolo/Vespolina/Croatina]

The first vintage (!) of this polished, serpentine wonder from Paolo de Marchi, who’s transforming Italy’s NW corner


  • 2005 Bruno Giacosa, Dolcetto d’Alba $40

Wonderfully pure, traditional Dolcetto, with fresh cranberry, persistent acidity, and a cool chicory and celery root edge


  • 2005 Filippo Gallino, Barbera d’Alba $30

Wow! - this wine is so alive, so fun and fresh and delectable, it really knocked me back; an easy, palate-friendly Barbera


  • 2005 Giacomo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba $64

From a legendary traditionalist producer, this 05 is remarkably fragrant - rosepetal & plum - and stimulatingly pure


RED - ITALY - TRE-VENETO

  • 1998 Cesari ‘Bosan’ Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto $138

My tasting notes for this single-vineyard wine read: ‘OH MY GOD’. Stunning, Quintarelli-esque suavity, heft & sexiness


  • 2000 Tommaso Bussola, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Veneto $90

A tempest in a bottle, this outsized Amarone has flavors you’ll be tasting into tomorrow; morels, dark chocolate & more


  • 2001 Allegrini ‘Palazzo della Torre’, Veneto $34

A touch of Sangiovese in the blend goes a long way here; sweet leather, round black cherry, bright acidity and good tannin


  • 2003 Abbazia di Novacella ‘Praepositus’ Lagrein, Alto-Adige $75

My personal ‘Wine of the Year 07’; so seamless and lean and filled with goodness, one regards the glass smiling & astonished


  • 2003 Emilio Bulfon, Picolit Neri ‘Barrique’, Venezia-Giulia $42

Take a sweet tone, violets, plums, tangerine and a hint of licorice - French oak & age it and you’ve got a rich surprise


  • 2003 Foradori, Teroldego Rotaliano, Trentino-Alto Adige $38

A cousin to Syrah, Teroldego snaps one to attention with its exotic, cool/hot Indian spice and cedary, filigreed finish


  • 2003 Masi ‘Campofiorin’ Ripasso, Veneto $28

The classic ripasso, with a bit more pop and sizzle in 03; dark raisin, fresh raspberry, a hint of anise, and great acidity


  • 2004 Raimondi, Valpolicella Ripasso, Veneto $35

Serious ripasso; under all the flashy raisin and cranberry preserve flavors, a tasty, woodsy, chestnut & balsam note develops


  • 2005 Abbazia di Novacella, Lagrein, Alto-Adige $44

An all-time favorite varietal for its relentless edginess and tanginess and velvety exoticism, made by a legendary estate


RED - ITALY - TUSCANY

  • 1978 Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva $120

From a great vintage, with powerful layers of cherry, cigar, cedar, and tobacco that is still full and firm on the end


  • 1994 Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico, Vigneto La Casuccia $100

Developed, integrated & approachable with ripe black cherry, plums, subtle leathery spice, a note of iron-earth and clay


  • 1995 Vitanza, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $120

More time in oak has lent an almond/walnut side to this classically intense, clovey, mineral-driven, powerful Brunello


  • 1996 Marchesi Incisa della Rochetta ‘Sassicaia’, Bolgheri

Another blockbuster Sassicaia with intense, smoky black cherry and plum, exotic spice, intense richness and length


  • 1998 Valtellina, Chianti Classico Riserva $50

Plush and generous for a Riserva, with dark, glimmering, exotic agave and blackberry flavors and a rush of a finish


  • 1998 Villa di Capezzana ‘Ghiae della Furba’ Carmignano $110

A Sangiovese with a touch of Cabernet, this is intense and packed with black fruits, spicy oak, wild herbs, and more


  • 2002 Castello di Brolio, Chianti Classico $52

An unusually good year for the legendary Ricasoli family; thru edgy cranberry fruit, this has achieved a certain opulence


  • 2002 Montepeloso ‘Nardo’, Toscana $160

The very best 2002 Toscana. Nearly perfect. Structured and warm. Sangio/Cab Sauv. Myrtle and savory blackberry.


  • 2003 Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico $85

The last word in Sangiovese elegance, with sandalwood, cedar, light chestnut, rolling black cherry, and lacy tannin


  • 2003 Colognole, Chianti Rufina $28

Bold, yet very classic Chianti, with dark cherry, great acid & sure tannin, along with dates, dark chocolate & almond


  • 2003 Rocca delle Macie, Morellino di Scansano $26

Lean, exotic Scansano, showing cardamom, pomegranate juice, notes of sour cherry, and a strong acidity on the end


  • 2004 Montepeloso ‘Eneo’, Toscana $68

Another great year for Montepeloso; this sexy Sangio/Colorino/Merlot blend is one of the top super-Tuscans of its vintage


  • 2004 Querciabella, Chianti Classico $55

Marvellously complex, biodynamic Chianti, with rye, mustard, limpid wild strawberry, dark pepper, and more


  • 2004 Riecine, Chianti Classico Riserva $70

Pomegranates’ sweet juice and bitter seeds are married here with fresh-planed cedar and smoky cigar-box tannin


  • 2005 Badia a Coltibuono ‘Roberto Stucchi’ Chianti Classico $38

A solid, noteworthy Chianti, with lots of tangy toasted cranberry, well-structured tannin, and great acid on the long finish


RED - NEW ZEALAND

  • 1996 Goldwater, Cabernet/Merlot, Waiheke Island $95

An amazing, Bordeaux-like wine with charred aromas, cedar, spices, a touch of earth, a smooth texture and long finish


  • 2003 Felton Road, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago $78

Firm and focused and fleshy, with crushed wild strawberry, fennel, a hint of chicory, low agave and a good heat on the end


  • 2003 Hatton Estate, ‘Carsons’ Cabernet Franc, Hawkes Bay $48

NZ’s best Cab Franc, with dark cassis, notes of iron, toasted radish & rhubarb, and a mocha & carob-toned finish


  • 2003 Nevis Bluff, Pinot Noir, Gibbston, Central Otago $48

An earnest PN from a cooler site, with flavors of fresh cacao, cranberry, a note of switchgrass and a firm finish


  • 2003 Quartz Reef, Pinot Noir, Bendigo, Central Otago $60

Gutsy Pinot, from a master winemaker and a hot, steep site, with spicy mustard seed, fennel, and the darkest of black cherries


  • 2003 Rippon, Pinon Noir, Wanaka, Central Otago $80

From Nick Mills, this biodynamic Pinot is one of the world’s best; rich black cherry, bold tannin, spice, and a pure tone


  • 2003 Valli, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago $80

From a valley vineyard, showing gutsy blue fruit, notes of marzipan and nutmeg and walnut, and a succulent blackberry end


  • 2003 Valli, Pinot Noir, Gibbston, Central Otago $80

From a cooler, upper-slope vineyard, showing suave cherry, bold lily & violet, light marjoram, and a clear, limpid purity


  • 2004 Felton Road, Pinot Noir ‘Block 5’, Bannockburn, Central Otago $90

Clean and lean, w/intense walnut & rhubarb, blackberry and mirabelle and smoke and a big bold penetrating acidity


  • 2004 Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Waipara $65

Richly flavored Pinot Noir from the great folks at Pegasus Bay, this has spicy oak and dark cassis and a toned finish


RED - OTHER COUNTRIES

  • 1997 Château Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon $75

A blend of Cinsault, Carignane, and Cab Sauvignon, this is Lebanon’s very best wine, and one of the wine world’s legendary


  • 2002 Movia, Pinot Nero, Brda, Slovenia $64

From biod. genius Ales Kristancic, this brooding Pinot sends up a sky of dark carob, from which black cherry stars shine


  • 2003 Zlatan Otok, Plavaç Mali ‘Barrique’, Island of Hvar, Dalmatian Coast, Croatia $60

Plavaç Mali, an ancient cousin of Zinfandel, shows wonderfully here: spicy caraway, black cherry, nice oak, and a great finish


  • 2005 René Favre et Fils, Pinot Noir, Chamoson, Valais, Switzerland $42

Cross a tangy Côte Chalonnaise with a blue volcanic Morgon and this would be the light-bodied, intense result - superb


RED - PORTUGAL

  • 2000 Luis Pato ‘Quinta do Ribeirinho’, Bairrada $50

This amazing Touriga Nacional/Baga blend has become softer with time: orange-pekoe tea, saffron, and spiced kumquat


  • 2002 Quinta do Crasto ‘Old Vines Reserva’, Douro $54

One of the richest and most intense Douros made, with dark violets, inky black licorice, saffron spice, and blackberry


  • 2003 Herdade do Esporão, Trincadeira, Alentejo $40

Trincadeira shows cleansing earl-grey tea tannin and inky black raspberry fruit - this is both savory & refreshing


  • 2003 Luis Pato, Baga, Beiras $28

A great vintage from the master of Baga: violet nose, juicy sour cherry, nutmeg & ginger, and Nebbiolo-esque tannin


  • 2003 Quinta dos Roques ‘Tinto’, Dão $26

Supple, smooth, ‘beginner’s’ Portugal wine, with classic spice and pomegranate fruit, along with a kirsch-liqueur finish


  • 2004 Niepoort ‘Redoma’, Douro $85

Sensational wine, very rare;older-vine Tourigas Roriz and Franca, w/blackberry, bay leaf, olive, sexy tannin & a long finish


  • 2004 Quinta do Cabriz ‘Reserva’, Dão $36

With soft, integrated oak, round blueberry/gingerbread flavors, and gentle tannin, this is very cheerful and appealing


RED - SOUTH AFRICA

  • 2002 Eben Sadie ‘Columella’, Swartland $120

This biodynamic wine is South Africa’s best - a Syrah/Mourvèdre blend, it’s filled with smoky game and sweet licorice


  • 2002 Mulderbosch ‘Faithful Hound’, Stellenbosch $46

A smooth, delectable Bdx blend that’s become an SA classic; dark cherry, eucalyptus, a note of baking chocolate, and more


  • 2003 Paul Cluver, Pinot Noir, Elgin $45

Superb, world-class Pinot, with wild strawberry, toasted walnut, hickory-smoke, graphite, and notes of vanilla


  • 2005 Fairvalley, Pinotage, Coastal Region $26

A classic Pinotage for its earthiness, char, and grip, complemented by notes of sweeter blue fruit and a shade of licorice


  • 2006 Hamilton Russell, Pinot Noir, Walker Bay $70

Stunning SA Pinot, like a Pommard with smoky venison notes, yet a terrific drive of cranberry-toned acidity on the end


RED - SPAIN - OTHER REGIONS

  • 2002 Artazu ‘Santa Cruz de Artazu’, Navarra $60

Vibrant, dynamic Garnacha; black raspberry liquour, lavender, schisty smokiness, a touch of pepper, and a long finish


  • 2002 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘St. Martín’, Bierzo $120

A blend of 8 hot sites on the steep St. Martín hill, this is intensely ripe, with inky raspberry, orange essence, pipe smoke. . .


  • 2003 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Corullón’, Bierzo $84

A blend of 105 sites on the Corullón side of the Bierzo basin, this is delectably exotic, with wild fig, sour cherry & cardamom


  • 2005 Atalayas de Golban, Ribera del Duero $44

Very expressive biodynamic Ribera, with smoked game, wild strawberry, fresh-crushed anise, and a lift of acid on the end


  • 2005 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Petalos’, Bierzo $42

For all this wine’s purity, Mencia shows a richer side here, with toffee, sassafrass, raspberry jam and a note of iron and clay


  • 2006 Doniene Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque Country $44

Wildly unique, all Hondurrabi Beltza, from 150 yr. old vines, this is fairly tannic, with black raspberry, clay, chalk, & more


RED - SPAIN - PRIORAT

  • 2001 Mas Garrian ‘Clos Severí’, Priorat $60

Very suave, with a cool, limpid, olive-and-mint core, surrounded by the purest licorice and lavender, with a sage-tannin end


  • 2003 Francisco Castillo ‘Clos Dominic’ Vinyes Baixas, Priorat $78

Gamey, dark and smoky at the start, this quickly changes gears to become supremely elegant and Hermitage-esque


  • 2005 Alvaro Palacios ‘Les Terrasses’, Priorat $65

A very stylish wine, with supple tannin and round, ripe fruit, through which Priorat’s schisty volcanic soil softly murmurs


RED - SPAIN - RIOJA

  • 1976 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ Reserva, Rioja Alta $190

A wine made for contemplation, this is perfectly integrated on every level: acidity, herb, pomegranate fruit, leather, tannin


  • 1981 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ Reserva, Rioja Alta $160

From an excellent vintage, this retains its intense ruby color; sage lavender, black cherry, and a pinpoint tannin/acid balance


  • 1999 Izadi, ‘Seleccion’, Rioja Alavesa $88

A superb, 80 Tempranillo/20 Graciano bottling from Izadi, this is terrifically precise - sweet tangy cherry & keen cedar


  • 1999 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Bosconia’ Reserva, Rioja Alta $60

Another wondrously structured wine, whose muscularity shifts with such agility that it seems leaner than it is; don’t miss it.


  • 2001 Remirez de Ganuza, ‘Finca de Ganuza’, Rioja Alavesa $85

Deep dark color - major length, majorcojones - dark olives, smoky chorizo, saffron, and a memorable finish


  • 2002 Joan d’Anguera ‘El Bugader’, Montsant $90

A superlative Syrah-driven blend, with morel mushroom, black licorice, fresh gravel and schist and slate and an endless finish


  • 2003 Sierra Cantabria, Crianza, Rioja Alta $34

Lean cherries up front, then a big plushness, almost toffee - before finishing juicy like Beaujolais - very complex Rioja


  • 2004 Izadi, Crianza, Rioja Alavesa $32

Impeccable concentration, with tobacco leaf, bing cherries, and graphite minerals; modern, yes, yet still lean and tasty


RED - SWITZERLAND

  • Cave de la Cote 2004 Gamay, Peissy, Switzerland $30

This shows terrific persistence of acidity and flavor for Gamay; all the qualities common to the wines around Geneva are in evidence here - sweet strawberry, rosehips, cut hay, blackberry, and more.


RED - USA - CALIFORNIA - CABERNET

  • 1999 Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $170

Much like the ‘98 - dark, concentrated, spicy oak and blackberry - w/ a greater lift on the finish from a riper vintage


  • 1995 Caymus, Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $225

Tasting beautifully - it’s massive, tight, yet incredibly complex with deep currants, spicy oak, hints of anise, earth, etc.


  • 1995 Groth, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

A Napa classic ~ rich and complex with cassis, cedar, earth, tar, coffee and spices with amazing finesse and power


  • 1996 Dalla Valle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $140

Another monster - dense, complex, with big earthy, spicy black fruit, cedar, tobacco, cassis, and more - simply huge


  • 1996 Groth, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $200

Good to drink now, and oh so tempting - amazingly complex and concentrated with deep cassis, smoke, spice, tobacco


  • 1997 Dalla Valle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $200

Certainly one of Napa’s best cabs - still a baby, but a trophy wine. Huge Napa cab. Everything you’d expect. 96 pts.


  • 1997 Groth, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $250

A massive wine that unfurls more and more flavors as it opens - deep cassis, earth, spice, tar, black cherry, and more


  • 1997 Robert Mondavi, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $225

Rated one of its year’s top 10 wines, this is famously big & intense, with a tightly-wound, complex finish of strong tannin


  • 1997 Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $175

A great vintage, another great Silver Oak packed with concnetrated fruit, lots of spicy oak, firm texture, & a long finish


  • 1998 Caymus, Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $250

Another blockbuster and press-wow-er from Caymus - big, concnetrated, intense - everything you’d expect of their SS


  • 1998 Dalla Valle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $250

A phenomenal Dalle Valle - yes, it’s a baby still, but it is so concentrated and powerful you can’t resist


  • 1998 Forman, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $90

A luxury, palate-flattering Cab whose wide attack of spiced currant and black cherry narrows into smoky, elegant tannin


  • 1998 Groth, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $250

Another amazing wine - complex and flavorful yet so balanced it’s almost elegant - the flavors keep expanding on & on


  • 1998 Robert Mondavi, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $225

An immensely dark, concentrated cab packed with currants, black cherry, plums, cedar, sweet spices with a long finish


  • 1998 Silver Oak, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $180

The legend continues - this wine is dark, concentrated, and loaded with spicy oak & black fruits with a complex finish


  • 1999 Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $135

Heady and fairly dark, with firm tannin and extracted fruit, and the barest flashes of something bright and harmonious


  • 1999 Caymus, Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $240

The vertical goes on... Another big, intense, concentrated, and extremely limited wine that will not disappoint...


  • 1999 Dalla Valle, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $225

Another superstar according to the press for its consistent depth, power, concentration & focus - it’s pricey for a reason!


  • 2000 Groth, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $125

More assertive fruit here, and less pungent tobacco and spice: raspberry, sout cherry, and a touch of eucalyptus on the end


  • 2000 Martin Ray, Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley $98

Sun-filled, wind-crossed mountain fruit gives this amazing lift on the palate; a currants, smoke, plum, & a long finish


  • 2002 Duckhorn, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $115

Packed with flavors of juicy fresh cherry, mint, a touch of graham cracker, and ending on a note of soft tannin


  • 2002 Rubissow-Sargent, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $65

Sophisticated, complex Napa Cab, with ripe bing cherry, loamy minerality, dark tobacco leaf, and lingering acidity


  • 2003 Whitehall Lane, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $70

Great balance here, between very ripe, sweet cherries, fresh figs, and austere tannin; a muscular, yet taut & restrained Cab


  • 2004 Truchard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carneros, Napa Valley $65

Softer, very delicious and approachable Cab, with cool gingerbread and nutmeg flavors, blue fruits, and easy tannin


  • 2005 Stratford, Cabernet Sauvignon, Knights Valley, American Canyon, Napa County $40

Solid, impressive Knights Valley Cab, with cocoa powder, blackberry, smoky oak, volcanic minerality, and beefy tannin


RED - USA - CALIFORNIA - CABERNET BLENDS

  • 1994 Ridge, ‘Monte Bello’ Santa Cruz Mountains $195

Another monster, packed with dense currant, wild berry, earth and spice with deep layers of flavor and a huge end


  • 1995 Dominus, ‘Napanook Vineyard’ Napa Valley $205

Big and bold yet showing well, this Dominus has black cherry, currants, minerals, a touch of oak, and a complex end


  • 1996 Dominus, ‘Napanook Vineyard’ Napa Valley $215

A ripe, complex Dominus with deep black cherry and cassis, earth, spice, charred flavors, and a super long finish


  • 1996 Stonestreet, ‘Legacy’ Alexander Valley, Sonoma $165

Drinks great now with its ripe, smooth texture and big flavors of currants, cherry, cedar, spices, coffee, and rich finish


  • 1997 Dalla Valle, ‘Maya’ Napa Valley $325

A very famous vintage; dark, rich,& lush with amazing concentration and complexity - tons of fruit, mint, spice, and more


  • 1997 Ridge, ‘Monte Bello’ Santa Cruz Mountains $225

A monster that is ripe and packed with black cherry and plums with layers of cedar, earth, spices, and a big, solid finish


  • 1999 Cain Five, Napa Valley $180

Excellent structure and longevity here thanks to mountain fruit: strong cedar and raspberry/pomegranate tea


  • 1999 Merryvale, ‘Profile’ Napa Valley $185

Incredibly profound, with a superb complexity of depth, structure and texture, showing vanilla, tobacco, mocha & cassis


  • 2003 Justin, ‘Isosceles’ Paso Robles $110

A remarkable vintage for this benchmark blend: espresso bean, fresh tobacco, vanilla/toffee, and a powerhouse finish


  • 2003 Ramey, Claret, Napa Valley $85

I was wowed by the linearity here; it’s a super-clean expression of Napa fruit: raspberry and sandalwood and lean tannin


  • 2004 Benziger, ‘Tribute’, Sonoma Mountain $135

Mike Benziger’s biodynamic commitment helped this achieve an amazing balance in a torrid year: a seamless total feel


  • 2005 Newton, Claret, Napa Valley $40

A pure sweet bing cherry fruit threads in and out of a solid tannic structure; a kiss of oak; a shade of black olive & pepper


RED - USA - CALIFORNIA - MERLOT

  • 1997 Benziger, Merlot, Reserve, Sonoma $70

Solid, seamless Sonoma Merlot, showing rich dates and sweet cassis beside graphite minerality and long, tasty tannin


  • 1997 Liparita, Merlot, Napa Valley $70

Packed with flavor, this is loaded with ripe plums, black cherry, a touch of oak and herbs, with a big, full finish


  • 1998 Forman, Merlot, Napa Valley $75

A cult classic - intense, dark, concentrated with dark fruit, tobacco, spice, and a gigantic, full finish: decant this one!


  • 1999 Pellegrini, Merlot, Cloverdale Ranch, Alexander Valley, Sonoma $39

A chunky and chewy merlot with ripe black cherry flavors, spicy oak, a gripping texture, and a lingering finish


  • 2000 Merryvale, Merlot, Reserve, Napa Valley $56

One of Napa’s most solid Merlots, with dark plum, clay, and a bordelais iodine note; medium-bodied and very satisfying


  • 2000 Steltzner, Merlot, Stag’s Leap District, Napa Valley $45

Classic Stag’s Leap Merlot - chunky and chewy with ripe plum and black cherry and spicy, earthy notes on the finish


  • 2002 Duckhorn, Merlot ‘Three Palms’, Napa Valley $155

Almost unctuous, this big, smoky, currant-filled, earl-grey tea-edged, toasty Three Palms may be their boldest yet


  • 2003 Cafaro, Merlot, Napa Valley $55

This ‘03 was a standout vintage for journeyman Joe Cafaro - very delicate, really - cool plum skin and filigreed, groovy tannin


  • 2004 Duckhorn, Merlot ‘Three Palms’, Napa Valley $180

A long finish - of sweet cassis and roasted cocoa bean and coconut and caramel - makes this a bit rounder than the ‘02


  • 2005 Makor, Merlot, Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Barbara County $35

Packed with blueberries and black cherry, this punchy Merlot is unique on this list for its sumptous muscularity


RED - USA - CALIFORNIA - OTHER GRAPES

  • 2000 Chiarello Family Vineyards ‘Roux Old Vines’, Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, California $94

A stunning cult favorite; perhaps California’s best Petite Sirah. Showing a super-clean, ultra-smooth texture throughout,


  • 2002 Robert Sinskey ‘Vandal Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, California $70

A leading biodynamic wine and California’s best Cab Franc, with wild raspberry, smooth milk chocolate, and much more


  • 2004 Robert Foley Vineyards, Charbono, Napa Valley, California $68

This is astonishing, w/an ideal balance of a Portuguese Touriga Nacional-like saffron & blackberry, & a Napa Cab soul


RED - USA - CALIFORNIA - SYRAH

  • 2001 Renard, Syrah, Peay Vineyard, Sonoma Coast $55

Sourced a stone’s throw from the ocean, this favorite is almost unbelievable for its poise, minerality, finesse, and finish


  • 2002 Ojai, Syrah, Bien Nacido, Central Coast $70

Powerful, unctuous, spicy - one of Cali’s very best - with bacon-fat, ginger, soy, dark walnuts, cedar, and much more. A fave.


  • 2002 Saxum, Syrah ‘Bonerock’, James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles $110

A newly canonical American Syrah - don’t miss it. Intense wild raspberry, crushed black pepper, and a mineral whollop


  • 2004 Andrew Murray, Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley $48

Heartwarming, full-bodied and incredibly flavorful, showing dates, spicy raspberry, rye, cola, and a terrific finish.


  • 2005 Qupe, Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley $55

A polished, elegant - almost gleaming - Syrah, with fresh blueberry and mocha and cinnamon and a bold, generous finish


  • 2005 Saxum, Syrah, Booker Vineyard, Paso Robles $110

Blended with Grenache, this is a huge wine, very spicy and outsized, with a memorable, high-octane finish


  • 2005 Tensley, Syrah, Santa Barbara County $65

Generous, small-production, hand-crafted Syrah: very fruity, very forward, with a finish that gathers richness and harmony


RED - USA - CALIFORNIA - ZINFANDEL

  • 2003 Caparone, Zinfandel, Paso Robles $35

Very old-school, traditional, med-alcohol, flavor-driven Zin from a super family, packed with clean fruit and dusty spice


  • 2003 Chase Cellars, Zinfandel, Hayne Vineyard, Napa $72

Hayne is one of the world’s best vineyards for Zin; this is sophisticated &bold, w/blackberry, black tea and a clean finish


  • 2003 D-Cubed, Zinfandel, Napa $48

From Duane Dappen (of Brown Vineyards), this fave is savory, balanced & medium-bodied: fig, brown sugar & more


  • 2004 Rutherford Ranch, Zinfandel, Napa $30

A classic ‘beginner’s Zin’, with green peppercorn spice, notes of fresh date and golden raisin and anise & a dry finish


  • 2004 Stephen Ross, Zinfandel, Dante Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles $54

Dante Dusi is one of Paso’s best sites; this heady, lip-smacking Zin shows raisin, toffee, spicy raspberry, and a long end


  • 2005 Turley, ‘Dogtown’ Zinfandel, Lodi $110

Gigantic and outsized as ever, with dark raisin and prune and heady boysenberry and milk chocolate, w/a note of spice


  • 2006 Brown, Zinfandel, Napa $70

This is my favorite Napa Zin for its balanced richness; it’s a cardamom-chocolate spice cake with a layered, luxurious finish


RED - USA - OTHER STATES

  • 2002 Barboursville, Nebbiolo ‘Reserve’, Barboursville, Virginia $85

The best Nebbiolo outside of Piedmont: dark strawberry, tar, roses, mahogany-wood, and wildly tasty tannin at the finish


RED - USA - PINOT NOIR

  • 2004 Hirsch Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California $114

A truly beautiful Pinot, from a favorite site, with fresh raspberry, ginger, wet stone, apricot, and a long, expressive finish


  • 2005 Bethel Heights ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $60

Firm, solid, beautifully dry, with hazelnut/nutella, a touch of clovey spice, and a cool macerated-blueberry fruitiness


  • 2005 Cristom ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvée’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $58

I don’t know how Steve Dorner does it; this is plush yet tannic, velvety yet lean, filled w/delectable fruits yet structured


  • 2005 Maysara ‘Jamsheed’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $48

The best vintage yet for this biodynamic wine; it’s incredibly vivid on the palate, with bright, plummy acidity and fresh date


  • 2006 Ken Wright ‘Guadalupe Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $100

Guadalupe is Ken’s most explosive wine; it keeps you spiraling deeper into further depths; dark cherry, big carob, toffee


  • 2006 Lange ‘Three Hills Cuvée’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $85

Spot-on, elegant, benchmark OR Pinot, with iron, agave, and deep black cherry, and a perfect acid/tannin/alcohol balance


  • 2006 Patricia Green ‘Anden Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $80

This 06 will be Patty’s last bottling from this vineyard; it has remarkable purity and depth, very Gevrey-esque in its suavity


  • 2006 Patricia Green ‘Four Winds’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $60

From a more western site, this has more wild, brambly flavors: licorice, forest floor, pine smoke, and blackberry


  • 2006 Patricia Green ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $50

Powerfully ripe fruit, matched with great acidity and an array of exotic spices, make this a benchmark Oregon wine


RED - USA - WASHINGTON

  • 2003 Sineann ‘Old Vines’ Zinfandel, Columbia Valley $68

Washington’s best Zin to date, with dark raisins, figs, mouthfilling fruit, hints of clay and earth, and great acidity


  • 2004 Betz Family Winery ‘Clos de Betz’, Columbia Valley $75

A very fine, distinguished BDX blend, with cool gravelly tannin, slow-developing apricot and an herbal wild sage quality


  • 2004 Bookwalter, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley $75

One of WA’s legendary Cabs for its earthy richness, palate-coating toffee and cassis flavors and keen tannin


  • 2004 K Vintners ‘Milbrandt’ Syrah, Columbia Valley $58

Charles Smith’s best yet, with a bit more savory concentration from a smaller crop: smooth blackberry and a killer finish


  • 2004 Seven Hills, Merlot, Columbia Valley $44

Classy, sophisticated Merlot, with wonderful gravelly minerality, bright cherry, and a fine sandalwood/cedar tone


  • 2005 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’, Columbia Valley $52

Perhaps Eric Dunham’s best vintage yet: deep violet perfume, gentle graphite, notes of ink and iodine and carob


  • 2006 OwenRoe ‘Ex Umbris’ Syrah, Columbia Valley $50

Smoky and dark and very expressive, with an inky/soy edge, this famous cult wine is one of Washington’s best Syrahs


RESERVE DESSERT WINES

  • 1995 Knoll, Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Wachau, Austria [500 mL] $125

Amazing and unforgettable; one of the best and most painstaking wines made in Austria, from one of its legendary viscosity. A perfectly aged, very rare wine which may not see the city again.


  • 1997 Chateau La Tour Blanche, Sauternes Premier Cru, Bordeaux, France [750 mL] $125

A classic Sauternes, intense and complex with expansive flavors. Being a 750mL bottle, this will require a few friends (very good friends) to polish off. The ultimate in decadence.


  • 1997 Il Palazzino, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy [375 mL] $65

This is the best Vin Santo I’ve ever had. Incredibly layered 100%Malvasia, it keeps shedding veil after veil of flavor along the palate, from clean honey to dried apricot, then baked figs, candied sesame seed, toasted hazelnut, and much more.


  • 1998 Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure ‘Cuvée Abbaye’, Monbazillac, Dordogne, France [500 mL] $44

Sweet fresh almonds, minty honey, light cinnamon, fresh oranges, and a lilac and iris aroma are just a few of the qualities here; cross a Sauternes with a Vin Santo and this would be the delicious result.


  • 1998 Kracher #1, Zweigelt Rosé Trockenbeerenauslese ‘Nouvelle Vague’, Neusiedlersee, Austria [500 mL] $98

It’s impossible to compliment this wine too highly It has a deep golden color of caramel and apricot, a spicy nose of ripe


  • 1998 Parparousis, Muscat de Rio-Patras, Patras, Greece [500mL] $50

A fresh, clean, aromatic, honeyed wonder from one of Greece’s kindest winemakers, this shows orange blossom and sweet marjoram and a note of cinnamon towards the long finish. Splash a bit to Dionysus, and it really shines . . .


  • 2000 Château Henye, Furmint ‘Late Harvest Reserve’, Tokaj, Hungary [500 mL] $45

The sweetness in this wine shows a really cool restraint; it’s more felt than tasted. Flavors of fresh bosc pear grow more taut and linear as the acidity lifts and the palate ruffles out into honeysuckle and oolong tea - the finish is very clean.


  • 2001 Meßmer, Spätburgunder Weißherbst Auslese, Pfalz, Germany [375 mL] $35

A light rosé Pinot Noir dessert wine (which could also be enjoyed as an apertif) that’ll knock your socks off; fresh gardenia, gentle sweet cherries, golden raisin, a note of vanilla cream, and a finish of great clean acidity.


  • 2003 La Tour de la Vieille, Vin Doux Naturel, Banyuls, Languedoc, France [500 mL] $40

A superb blend of Grenache and Carignane, showing clean cassis, fiery wild marjoram spices, notes of black licorice, straw, and plum, and a dry, yet sweetly savory, finish.


WHITE - AUSTRALIA

  • 2001 Pierro, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia $65

A sexy, award-winning Chardonnay showing lots of rich yellow apple, Thai spices, lemongrass, and a silky finish


  • 2006 Petaluma, Riesling, Hanlin Hill Vineyard, Clare Valley, Australia $40

Galloping acidity and low alcohol helps this mid-bodied, taut, steely Riesling stand out; a big marzipan and apricot finish


WHITE - AUSTRIA

  • 1999 Rudi Pichler, Weißburgunder Smaragd, Wösendorfer, Wachau $40

Very cool, fairly rare, dry Pinot Blanc, with celery powder and cucumber, green apple and mint and juicy pear and more


  • 1999 Schwarz, Chardonnay, Neusiedlersee $45

A Kracher/Schwarz/Krankl project, this is huge, and really delicious; fresh cashews, quince, oak, and green apples


  • 2000 Freie Weingärtner Wachau, Riesling Smaragd, Weissenkirchen Achleiten, Wachau $35

This has aged with grace - white nectarine, peach pit, shades of petrol, a light sesame nuttiness, and a bracingly dry finish


  • 2001 Hirtzberger, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Honivogl, Spitz, Wachau $89

This has a fiery white-pepper and high-acid heart that beats against a taut chest of intensely ripe orange & persimmon


  • 2001 Rudi Pichler, Riesling Smaragd, Achleiten, Wachau $74

This Riesling is one of Wachau’s best. White spice, cumin, loess, toast, nectarine, and citrus favors frolic at their ease


  • 2003 Alzinger, Riesling Smaragd, Loibner Loibenberg, Wachau $32

Another taut, Gothic, papaya & celery-salt-driven dry Riesling from one of Wachau’s masters, with notes of ginger & lime


  • 2003 FX Pichler, Riesling Smaragd, Oberhauser, Wachau $75

This rich 03 from the legendary Franz Xavier has a sapphire purity and fire beneath its wide-open verbena and citrus


  • 2003 Tement ‘Klassik’, Sauvignon Blanc, Steirische, Styria $46

This keen SB will test your palate strength; it’s wildly, juicily tropical, searingly taut, and floral all at once; a real delight


  • 2004 Hans Setzer, ‘Erste Lage’ Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel $42

A terrific Grüner with a range of gentle, complex textures (semolina & éclair), pink peppercorn spice and cool fruits


  • 2005 Frühwirth, Scheurebe, Styria $34

Hold on, ‘cause this racy dry Scheu with flashy tropical fruits and clean, kickin’ spice is gonna take you for a wild ride


  • 2005 Glatzer, Grüner Veltliner, Carnuntum $26

A gentle Grüner Veltliner, with bosc pear, young mango, soft saffron and lemongrass, in a supple, fresh, lithe texture


  • 2005 Prager, Riesling Federspiel, Wachau $48

05 was a benchmark vintage for Toni B. at Prager; this big wine shimmers on the palate with cool papaya and peppermint


  • 2005 Prager, Riesling Smaragd, Klaus, Wachau $55

If you like Austrian Riesling, do not miss this wine - it’ll knock your socks off - honeycomb and acacia and a deep impact


  • 2006 Heidi Schrock, Weißburgunder, Neusiedlersee-Huggeland, Austria $40

Heidi makes wines of amazing charm - this is like a taste of pure spring - mineral and lemongrass and a vivid freshness


  • 2006 Wimmer-Czerny, Grüner Veltliner, Wagram $26

Delectable biodynamic Grüner, with all kinds of angles: saffron spice, honeysuckle, lime zest, guava, lemongrass, and more


WHITE - FRANCE - ALSACE

  • 1995 Domaine Bott-Geyl, Riesling Vendanges Tardives, Mandelberg [500 mL] $45

A color of dark honey, aromas of a wet meadow, flavors of ripe pear, a dry, clean finish of grapefruit-rind acidity


  • 1997 Marcel Deiss, Riesling, Vendanges Tardives, Burg $75

This unwinds in rigor and frenzy, showing primal rock, exotic spices, intense fruit, notes of petrol and a thread of sweetness


  • 1998 Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer, Herrenweg de Turckheim $68

Exotic with intense tangerine, honey, and smoky flavors with deep richness, complex mineral notes, and a HUGE finish


  • 1999 Zind Humbrecht, Pinot d’Alsace $52

A blend of Auxerrois, Pinot-Blanc, and Chardonnay - a combination of richness, spice, minerals and a clean finish


  • 1999 Zind Humbrecht, Riesling, Wintzenheim ‘Clos Hauserer’ $75

Astonishingly complex and concentrated, this wine has ripe apples, honey, minerals, citrus, floral notes, and more


  • 2001 Zind Humbrecht, Pinot d’Alsace $55

Traditional blend (Auxerrois, P-B, Chardonnay) with a touch more sweetness; electric grapefruit, citrus and minerality


  • 2002 Marcel Deiss, Grand Cru ‘Altenberg de Bergheim’ $155

“It’s not a wine, it’s a dream.” (J-M. Deiss) This creation fulfills the spirit of the earth. One of the best wines you’ll ever have.


  • 2002 Marcel Deiss, Premier Cru ‘Burg’ $84

“Sumptuous, concentrated. . w/the particular spices of Keuper marl: cardamom, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg.” (J-M. Deiss)


  • 2003 Albert Boxler, Muscat, Grand Cru ‘Brand’ $88

Breathtaking intensity for Muscat; it’s another level entirely, with dark iron, roasted poppy seed, papaya chip, and cinnamon


  • 2004 Domaine Ostertag, Gewurztraminer $50

Pinpoint biodynamic Gewurz., whose faint trace of sweetness lends a wonderful lift to the finish: orange peel and caraway


  • 2004 Marc Tempé, Riesling ‘Zellenberg’ $40

From a young biodynamic master, this taut Riesling really sings; peppercorn smoke, white nectarine, and a cool mint end


  • 2005 Meyer-Fonné, Riesling, Grand Cru ‘ Wineck Schlossberg’ $55

It’s a joy to share a top-notch Grand Cru Riesling at this price - lavender, lychee, cut hay, and a hint of more tropical fruit


WHITE - FRANCE - BURGUNDY

  • 1998 Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘En Virondot’ $100

A huge wine with big flavors of ripe apple, smoke, toast, honey, nuts, vanilla bean, and more - amazingly complex


  • 1999 Château Genot Boulanger, Meursault Premier Cru ‘Les Boucheres’ $72

Ripe pineapple & yellow apples lead to classic Meursault flavors of hazelnut, smoke, butterscotch, beeswax & sandalwood


  • 2001 Dauvissat, Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ $82

This ideal Chablis is superbly taut and fine on the palate, with nervy green apple, galloping minerality, and a bold finish


  • 2002 Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘Clos du Château’ $115

A powerful, forward 1er Cru, showing apricot and peach-pit and gravelly minerals; its strong laciness lets in lots of sun


  • 2002 Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘Les Chalumaux’ $95

Succulent gala apple flavors and a soft, pillowey minerality are underscored by shades of citronella, lavender, and spice


  • 2002 Henri Vezeley, Bourgogne Blanc $34

This was made by Bernard Raveneau, and the pedigree shows. Stunning tropical fruit, limestone, chalk, and much more


  • 2002 Jean-Phillippe Fichet, Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes $54

A superb wine, of Meursault-driven fruit, with terrific violet perfume, rain-soaked stone, and a charmingly nervous acidity


  • 2002 Vincent Dancer, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru ‘La Romanee’ $125

From a nearly perfect year, this has a pristine elegance, w/ bright, tart exotic fruits, good muscularity, and big minerals


  • 2003 Dauvissat, Chablis $50

A higher pitch of ripe fruit, nearly tropical, surrounds Dauvissat’s classic flinty, nervous, apply core; very satisfying Chablis


  • 2003 Leroy, Beaune $105

A top ‘03 from this superlative estate - it has the girth of Pavarotti and the speed of a TGV-train; muscular & nervy


  • 2004 Domaine de la Chapelle, Pouilly-Fuissé, Vieilles Vignes (Mâcon) $50

A plush wine, which lays out a soft carpet of quince paste and vanilla extract for your palate to rest on - a real delight


  • 2005 Alice et Olivier DeMoor, Chablis ‘Bel Air’ $50

From one of France’s nicest winemaking couples, who happened to craft some unsurpassed Chablis in 2005. . . .


  • 2005 Bruno Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Vieilles Vignes $55

Strong, tightly knit textures, flavors of jonathan apple and honeysuckle and vanilla bean, and a nice lift of acid on the finish


WHITE - FRANCE - LOIRE VALLEY

  • 1996 Alphonse Mellot ‘Cuvée Edmond’, Vieilles Vignes, Sancerre $190

No kidding, man! - this biodynamic wonder is one of the best French whites of the last four decades, it’s just amazing


  • 2000 Chateau Yvonne, Saumur $56

Lovely, old-vine, Chassagne-Montrachet-style Chenin, with fresh citronella, limestone, light vanilla bean & a big finish


  • 2000 Domaine des Baumard ‘Trie Speciale’, Savennières $62

Intense, wound-up flavors of ripe nectarine, sweet hay, and chamomile chutney are poised against galloping minerality


  • 2002 Chateau Pierre-Bise ‘Les Rayelles’, Rochefort, Coteaux du Layon [500 mL] $48

Stunningly complex, 1/2 dry Chenin, with bracing kumquat, notes of nutmeg and violet, and mouthfilling minerality


  • 2003 Benedicte de Rycke ‘Cuvée Louise’, Jasnières $40

Complex and plush Chenin Blanc, w/fennel, sweet gala apple & cinnamon, rich plums, orange blossom & aloe & more


  • 2003 Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines (N. Joly) ‘Coulée de Serrant’, Savennières $155

One of the world’s legendary wines; its intensity will leave you breathless. Its tightly knit textures require early decanting.


  • 2003 Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines (N. Joly) ‘Les Clos Sacrès’, Savennières $65

From a set of younger vines, this is an arresting and very complicated wine, with tamarind, peach pit, and smoky aromas


  • 2004 Alphonse Mellot ‘Les Romains’, Vieilles Vignes, Sancerre $45

Lean, aristocratic Sancerre, with young peach and apricot, and just enough of a petrolly/kumquat note to keep it complex


  • 2004 Château d’Epire, Savennières $30

A perfect year for this esteemed château, this flatters the palate with its soft build of orchard fruit and balanced acidity


  • 2004 Hippolyte Reverdy, Sancerre $36

Phenomenal tone here, due to a ‘just ripe’-ness; it’s showing fresh and kickin’ acidity, quince jelly, acacia, and white peach


  • 2004 Huet ‘Le Haut Lieu’, Vouvray Sec $50

The last word in suavity, this superlative Chenin flatters the palate with quince, spiced apple, green tea, and awesome acid


  • 2004 Marc Ollivier ‘Cuvée Eden’, Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, Muscadet $26

This is the best Muscadet I’ve had in many years; I could drink it every day! Just-picked peach, acacia, gorgeous textures


  • 2005 Foreau ‘Clos Naudin’, Vouvray Demi-Sec $68

Wow - this is a deep, bass-driven Vouvray, with shiitake mushroom, overripe pear, dark peppercorn, and a smoky finish


  • 2005 Hervé Seguin, Pouilly-Fumé $44

An amazing, persistent counterpoint between pure chalk that dries the palate and swift, refreshing grapefruit & peach


  • 2005 Huet ‘Le Haut Lieu’, Vouvray Sec [375 mL] $30

The best white half-bottle in town, this is fresh, beguiling, and all biodynamic, with cinnamon, anjou pear, and more


  • 2006 Claude Riffault ‘Les Boucauds’, Sancerre $48

The Meursault of Sancerres, this is luxurious and palate flattering and remains very refreshing, finishing with lemon curd


WHITE - FRANCE - OTHER REGIONS

  • 1999 Jacques Puffeney, ‘Cuvée Sacha’, Jura $45

It’s back! This (staff favorite) blend of deliberately oxidized Savagnin and Chard. is like a fino on acid - literally. Don’t miss!


  • 2001 Yves Cuilleron ‘Les Chaillets’ Vieilles Vignes, Condrieu $80

One of the 2 or 3 best Condrieus made; its big, viscous yet tangy flavors of acacia and orange will absolutely floor you


  • 2002 Charles Hours ‘Cuvée Marie’ Sec, Jurançon $40

Gros Manseng and Petite Corbu, this is dry, smoky and very intense, with chicory, anise, mushrooms & dark almond


  • 2002 Domaine de Montbourgeau, L’Etoile, Jura $38

All Chardonnay, this unique, deliberately oxidized wine has marvelous balance b/w toasted almond and very fresh nectarine


  • 2002 Vieux Telegraph Blanc, Chateauneuf-du-Pape $90

The essence of dry honey in a silky body, with strong notes of edelweiss, stony minerals, fennel, coconut, acacia, etc. . .


  • 2004 Clos Ste. Magdaleine, Cassis $44

This charming southern French classic was fairly powerful in 04; coconut, lavender, aloe, pineapple, and a touch of plantain


  • 2005 Granges des Roquette, Marsanne/Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc $26

Again, nice balance here between variable flavors; weighty beeswax and honeycomb, and aromatic florals and pear


  • 2006 J. Pierre et J. François Quénard, Jacquères, Chignin, Savoie $32

Very fresh and keen - melon and peach and strawberry - with a touch of petillance and a shade of weightier marzipan


  • 2006 Domaine de Triennes ‘Sainte Fleur’ Viognier, Vin de Pays du Var $28

Classic, mid-full bodied southern French Viognier, with fragrant lily & apricot, a note of quince jelly, and a fresh finish


WHITE - GERMANY

  • 1977 Kurt Darting, Riesling Spätlese, Dürkheimer Spielberg, Pfalz $75

Bracing, lively, and on the drier side of medium-sweet, with low petrol, zesty grapefruit pith, and a hint of warm spice


  • 1989 Reuscher-Haart, Riesling Spätlese, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Mosel $55

Surprising leanness and limpidity here; soft pear skin, a touch of tangy goat cheese, bright acidity, and medium sweetness


  • 1992 Schmitt-Wagner, Riesling Kabinett, Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg, Mosel $50

I was shocked that this was a teenage Kabinett; it’s very juicy and youthful, with bright sweet lime and mint and ginger


  • 1993 Zilliken, Riesling Spätlese, Saarburger Rausch, Saar $54

Clean as a whistle, this beautifully aged, elegant Spätlese nearly tastes dry, with quinine, pear skin, and amazing acidity


  • 1995 Balthasar Ress, Riesling Spätlese, Oestricher Doosberg, Rheingau $42

After a sweet, tropical beginning, the acidity leaps up, and this (young) ‘95quickly becomes very taut and tangy and bright


  • 2003 Müller-Catoir, Riesling Spätlese, Haardter Herrenletten, Pfalz $89

Epic. One of the top wines of the vintage. This shimmers with unforgettable complexity: lithe and agile and powerful


  • 2004 Müller-Catoir, Riesling Spätlese, Haardter Burgergarten, Pfalz $62

Whole blocks of diverse qualities swing through the palate by turns; keen citrus, malty lambic, and sweet orange spice


  • 2004 Müller-Catoir, Scheurebe Spätlese, Haardter Mandelring, Pfalz $74

Bold cassis, crushed fennel-seed, citronella & ore develop on a line of marvelous tension to a dry finish of memorable weight


  • 2004 Robert Weil, Riesling Spätlese, ‘Estate’, Rheingau $75

A clean burst of light, both lacy and powerful, with perfectly balanced sugar and acid, anjou pear & dates & kiwi & more


  • 2005 Dönnhoff, Riesling Spätlese, Oberhäuser Brücke, Nahe $90

From a monopole of kaleidescopic soil complexity, this is rich & fairly sweet, with guava & kumquat: one of the world’s best


  • 2005 Schmitt-Wagner, Riesling Auslese, Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg, Mosel $40

Remarkably accessible, drinkable young Auslese; good sweetness and acidity, sassafrass, lemongrass, and herbal spices


  • 2006 A. J. Adam, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel $45

Andreas Adam is crafting some of the Mosel’s best wines at his tiny estate; pink slate and grapefruit and graceful sweetness


  • 2006 Schlossgut Diel, Riesling Kabinett, Pittermänchen, Nahe $55

This favorite sparkles and shimmers on the palate with sweet apricots and figs and orange, then settles into a slow finish


  • 2007 Dr. Thanisch, Riesling Kabinett, Bernkasteler Badstube, Mosel $38

Very integrated sweetness here; the smoky, slatey minerality shows beautifully; intense and refreshing, w/crisp orchard fruit


WHITE - ITALY

  • 2003 Emilio Bulfon, Ucelut, Venezia-Giulia [500 mL] $40

An off-dry, late-harvest rarity, this was made for cheese pairing, w/ a deep melon nose, citrus acidity, and sexy palate feel


  • 2004 Bisson ‘Ü Pastine’, Bianchetta Genovese, Golfo del Tigullio $38

Bianchetta Genovese is one of the coolest white varietals; it’s lacy and elegant, with grapefruit, licorice and cream soda


  • 2004 Stefano Bellotti, Cascina degli Ulivi ‘Filagnotti’, Gavi $30

A top Gavi & one of the world’s coolest biodynamic wines; fresh soufflé texture, meringue & lemon flavors on the palate


  • 2004 Tamellini, Soave $26

The barest shade of toasted almond threads through this medium-bodied, pear & young-apricot-flavored Garganega


  • 2005 Araldica ‘La Luciana’ , Gavi $26

Clean, straightforward Cortese, whose brisk white peach and sea-salt flavors lead to a finish of surprising presence


  • 2005 Bisson ‘Marea’, Riomaggiore (Cinque Terre) $55

A deep golden color, tense textures of both paraffin and brine, intense flavors of tamarind, aloe, and chamomile


  • 2005 Giovanni Puiatti, ‘Le Zuccole’ Sauvignon Blanc, Isonzo (Friuli) $30

Superbly balanced Sauv Blanc, with keen acidity, tropical (not grassy) kiwi and pineapple, and a surprisingly long finish


  • 2005 Les Crêtes, Petite Arvine, Valle d’Aosta $60

A rather profound wine from the Alpine northwest, whose Grand Cru Chablis-body is cut with exotic flowers and spice.


  • 2005 Malvira’, Roero Arneis, Piedmont $28

Rich soil gives this wine great impact and boldness, backing up fennel seed, jasmine, fresh oranges and huge acidity


  • 2005 Terradora di Paolo, Falanghina, Irpinia, Campania $26

Fresh Falanghina, combining classic qualities of licorice and pear skin with flashy pineapple and terrific acidity


  • 2006 Elio Perrone ‘Sourgal’ Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont $30

From Italy’s finest Moscato maker, this is bottled young to be enjoyed fresh: it’s pearly and perfectly sweet & captivating


  • 2006 Fattoria Cabanon, Sauvignon Blanc, Oltrepo Pavese $40

The whole of this amazing wine is so much more than the sum of its parts: violet, lavender, malt, pear and apricot


  • 2006 Torre Gaia, Greco, Sannio (Campania) $28

Greco is a favorite ancient varietal, showing cool-toned Indian spices, tropical kiwi and fresh mango, and a keen feel


  • 2006 Villa Calcinaia ‘Comitale’, Toscana $28

This killer Tuscan white was a big hit at our recent Calcinaia tasting: lychee, grapefruit, fresh pistachio, and more


  • 2007 Argiolas, Vermentino, Sardegna $32

Zesty, tangy, herbal and refreshing, with lemon rind, a note of pink grapefruit, and a sage & basil finish


WHITE - NEW ZEALAND

  • 2002 Isabel, Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand $42

Plush, opulent Chard, with rich brioche & eclair aromas, and creme brulée and lemon/nectarine flavors on the palate


  • 2003 Carrick, Riesling, Central Otago, New Zealand $34

Crisply dry and squeaky clean, showing orchards of fresh peaches, a note of flint, strong petrol, and a shimmering acidity


  • 2005 Felton Road, Riesling, Central Otago, New Zealand $46

Blair Walters’ best vintage yet - half-dry, picked at Spätlese ripeness, this has stunning clarity and weight, w/a long finish


  • 2005 James Millton, Chenin Blanc, Te Arai Vineyard, Gisborne, New Zealand $44

A demi-sec in style from 20% botrytis, this new biodynamic classic is tropical & herbal, w/toasted sesame-seed & dry honey


  • 2006 Martinborough Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc ‘Te Tara’, Marlborough, New Zealand $32

A classic NZ Sauvignon Blanc, with fresh blackberry fruit, keen acidity, a note of snap pea, and a clean finish


WHITE - OTHER COUNTRIES

  • 1981 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Viña Tondonia’ Gran Reserva Blanco, Rioja Alta, Spain $160

Stunningly alive: ripe Alhambran oranges in a summer sunset, white birch smoke, a meadow of dew-covered lavender&sage


  • 2004 Dveri Pax, Sauvignon Blanc, Ljutomer-Ormoz, Slovenia $26

One of the world’s best SBs for its steely, clean linearity: young apricot, grassy shades, a note of oregano and mint


  • 2005 Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Walker Bay, South Africa $50

There’s no question that this is SAfrica’s best Chard - powerful vanilla, shelled pistachio, super-ripe apricot, great acidity


  • 2006 doFerriero, Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain $48

Dried turkish apricot notes play in a melody of oyster-ey saltiness and lime acidity, with crême fraiche in the distance


  • 2006 Ken Forrester, Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa $30

White peaches and stripes of ripe apricot enliven this delicious Chenin; a soft mid-palate picks up great speed on the finish


  • 2007 Crios, Torrontes, Cafayate, Argentina $28

A powerfully aromatic, Muscat-like nose leads to a unique blend of kiwi and pear flavors and a crisp, refreshing finish


WHITE - USA - CHARDONNAY

  • 2000 Newton ‘Red Label’ Chardonnay, Napa/Sonoma $46

Powerful flavors of yellow apple and toasty spice give way to a sunny, refreshing mid-palate, and a finish that sings


  • 2003 Dehlinger, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma $55

Powerful, Chassagne-sytle Chard with impeccably balanced apricot, vanilla, rich minerality, bold acidity, and a big finish


  • 2004 DuMol, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma $98

From one of the most sought-after wineries today, this RRV bottling has it all: ripe yellow apple, nectarine, vanilla, and more


  • 2005 Failla ‘Keefer Ranch’ Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma $75

One of Cali’s best wines, w/power and suavity, this shows silky textures, rich fruit, measured oak and a keen, lasting finish


  • 2006 Hendry, Chardonnay, Napa $38

George Hendry’s unoaked bottling, this has showstopping tropical fruit, figs, a note of date and palate-coating textures


WHITE - USA - OTHER WHITES

  • 1999 Domaine de la Terre Rouge, Viognier, Shenandoah Valley $48

A big Viognier with beguiling floral and peach aromas with evident richness but good balance and lasting flavor


  • 2000 Tablas Creek Paso Robles $55 [Roussanne/Viognier/Marsanne/Grenache Blanc]

A baby Châteauneuf blanc, this is as complex as it gets with ripe, exotic fruits, rich spice, and an extraordinary finish


  • 2002 Brander, ‘Cuvée Natalie’ Santa Ynez Valley $32 [Sauvignon Blanc/Riesling/Gewurztraminer]

The result of a partnership between Fred Brander & Didier Dagueneau; crisp lime and brilliantly pure orange blossom


  • 2003 Darioush, Viognier, Napa Valley $70

‘03 is a return to form for this classic, cult US Viognier: finessed nectarine and honeysuckle lining a big, powerful body


  • 2003 Fess Parker, Viognier, Santa Barbara County $30

A strong Viognier, with a big palate feel, bold aromatics, loads of ripe peaches, and a touch of lanolin on the very end


  • 2004 Francis Tannahill ‘Jack’, Willamette Valley, Oregon $45 [Pinots Blanc and Gris/Chardonnay]

Wow; think Movia, think Gravner; 6 months and the skins and many more in barrel; dark and nutty and flavorful


  • 2006 Isenhower ‘Snapdragon’ Roussanne, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington $42

Killer Roussanne; waxy & aloey up front, then nutty like banana nut bread, spicy like nettle, and fruity like lychee & peach


  • 2006 K Vintners, ‘Kung Fu Girl’ Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington $28

A quaffer’s dry Riesling, very juicy and fresh, with pear, a note of tangy grapefruit, and a lean, medium-toned acidity


  • 2006 Ponzi, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon $28

Ponzi’s best vintage yet, helping prove that this is Willamette’s top white varietal: cheerful peach and melon and musk


  • 2007 Long Meadow Ranch, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley $30

I was really impressed by the length on this organically made wine; fresh white peach, a note of juicy nectarine, and more



  
Webster's Wine Bar Chicago   |   1480 W. Webster   |   Chicago, IL 60614   |   773.868.0608   |