Champagne
Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru, Pinot Noir | Chardonnay, Montagne de Reims
190
Egly-Ouriet (ee·glee oo·ree·ay) def. The precipice of making elegant Champagne, naturally. Far be it minimal intervention that a winemaker could ever achieve such feats as Francis Egly’s wines do. It starts from heavy intervention farming in that each bunch is tended to by hand, individually, multiple times a vintage to control yields. The wine making that follows is a slow and precise control, designed to mitigate oxidation and promote a wild fermentation with healthy lees for long aging. The result is nothing short of greatness, and in some moments a masterpiece.
Étienne Doué, Cuveé Sélection, Chardonnay | Pinot Noir, Brut NV
79
Étienne Doué is a family affair with both his son, Jean-Francois, and daughter Virginie helping with the business in Montgueux. The first vines were planted in 1972 and then marketed under the Etienne Doué brand later that decade. In 1987 the business joined Les Vignerons Indépendants who’s mission is to protect the Independent Winegrowers of France and promote the professional winemaker and their economic development. In a region dominated by negotiant business, the independent winegrower is distinguished by cultivating their vines, creating and marketing their own wines. Doué is a true grower producer sending us wines at a cost much lower than other who make the claim of independence.
Solemme "Terre Solemme" 1er Cru Brut, Pinot Meunier | Pinot Noir | Chardonnay, Montagne de Reims
99
From a mere 15 acres of steep chalky slopes, Olivier Langlais farms biodynamically and even disgorges according to the moon cycle. Even the name of this wine is a nod to the sun goddess Sol/Sun Emme/Feminine. It’s a sharp wine but Olivier had delicate intentions in the cellar evoking subtle toast and apple.
NV JOSEPH PERRIER 'CUVÉE ROYALE,' Pinot Noir | Chardonnay | PINOT MEUNIER, Montagne de Reims
85
NV COLLET 'ART DECO,' Pinot Noir | Chardonnay | PINOT MEUNIER, Montagne de Reims
120
NV LACOURTE-GODBILLON ‘TERROIRS D'ECUEIL,’ Pinot Noir | Chardonnay, Montagne de Reims
100
Lacourte-Godbillon is a family house that for many years farmed grapes to sell to large Champagne houses. And, what quality those houses would have received! A newcomer to the city of Chicago, and quite thankful for its arrival. Steely, mineral driven, finesse bubbles.
NV LACOURTE-GODBILLON ‘Mi Pentes,’ Pinot Noir | Chardonnay, Montagne de Reims
135
Pierre Paillard Les Terres Roses XVIII, Grand Cru, Chardonnay | Pinot Noir, Bouzy
160
An absolute stunning and complex rosé, vintage after vintage the Paillards craft one of our favorites. Maybe it is the exemplary farming practices, maybe it’s the tiny addition of still pinot noir, Bouzy Rouge, Maybe it is the consistently chalky minerality and lively mouth feel? Regardless of the influence, there is magic afoot in Bouzy and it is bottled for sale.
Charpentier Tradition Brut, Chardonnay | Pinot Noir | Pinot Meunier, Vallée de la Marne
79
As a newcomer to the grower/producer realm, Charpentier is not only blazing the road less traveled by biodynamically farming but also bringing their neighbors along for the ride. The wave of sustainability is making its way across Champagne glacial speeds and this bottling of 'Tradition Brut' is a great example of neighbors working together. The house allows their neighbor’s sustainable farming efforts to be added to this cuvée which keeps it priced low so the whole village can afford to partake.
Charpentier 'Terre d'Emotion', blanc de blancs, Vallée de la Marne NV
150
I love the body of this wine. The mousse is expressive on first opening the bottle. It has a fine and subtle aroma crafted for expressing the crus of Charly-Sur-Marne and Saulchery which consists of limestone marls sprinkled with millstones and silex all held up by soft lime bedrock. I write ‘held up’ because there is something uniquely lifted about the Chardonnay from these plots.
NV A. Bergère, 'Origine' Brut, Chardonnay | Pinot Noir | Pinot Meunier, PETIT MORIN
120
East coast wine royality, but new to Chicago turf, Grand Cru Selections, brought us this stunning Brut. The Bergère family of grower winemakers, farming across 3 historic villages south of Empernay near the river Petit Morin. The family's winemaking heritage dates back to 1949. The area sits on mostly limestone, less sand and even less clay. The 'Origine' cuveé is 70% 2019 vintage and 30% older vintages.
NV Pertois-moriset 'les quatre terroirs' brut, grand cru, les mesnil-sur-oger
140
WOW! What a sophisticated and utterly indulgent Blanc des Blancs that rivals its massively more expensive neighbors. Low dosage and a high percentage of the yearly wine weave together like soft Turkish sheets. Grand Cru Blanc des Blancs does not have to cost over $500!
Suenen, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Extra Brut, Cramant, Oiry
170
For Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs we bring you one of Aurelian’s pure expressions of Chardonnay. It is vinified with indigenous yeasts in a range of neutral containers from wood to concrete. Vintage dictates whether any barrel goes through malolactic fermentation adding a unique expression year over year. B18 is a beautiful explosion of mousse, lean and crystal dry.
Jérôme Bourgeois-Diaz ‘BD‘M’ Pinot Meunier, Crouttes-sur-Marne
160
From 3 parcels of Demeter certified vineyards on the banks of the Marne River Jérôme bring us this rich but dry cuvée. Equidistant from Paris and Reims, the site sits so far west one may write it off as an outlier, but after tasting, it is obviously an expertly crafted Brut from the robust variety.
CORPINNAT & CONCA DEL RIU ANOIA, Penedès Spain
We choose to highlight these winemakers and emerging regions for a couple of important reasons. These winemakers farm biodynamically with mostly indigenous varietals, which is really important to hedge against climate change. Synergy with mother nature is going to be integral in beating the high temps and drastic weather heading our way, and these regions are poised to continue making wines for generations to come. The Monserrate mountain range provides a barrier from the harsh hails and heavy rains experienced by other regions. indigenous varietals thrive in Penedès with deep rootstocks to find water in arid conditions. Then the terroir! Any chunk of limestone at Raventos or conglomerate rock at Gramona will be full of ancient sea life, which after 16 million years equals pure minerality. Call me crazy, but sometimes I swear I can taste a hint of crustacean shell.
2017 Raventós 'Manuel Raventós Negra’ Xarel·lo | Macabeo, Conca del riu Anoia
175
This is Manuel’s ‘flor y nata’ of his estate wines, which he personally crafts and only from perfect vintages. Despite extreme contrasts in weather, 2015 ultimately had all the components for a exceptional harvest. This vintage Manuel used mostly his oldest Xarel·lo vines with some younger Macabeo for additional acidity, (about 70/30). His intention is to make a fresh wine for lovers of acidity, structure and volume. Very Limited.
2016 Raventós 'Textures de Pedra’ Xarel·lo | Sumoll | Bastard Negra, Conca Del Riu Anoia
90
No dosage and 42 months on native yeasts from the vineyard, along with some rare red Xarel·lo Vermell vines planted in '65. The grape variety Sumoll (sue-moy) also makes up part of this wine, from the highest-elevation plot at Raventos, El Serral.
2009 Gramona ‘Celler Batlle’ Xarel·lo | Macabeu, Corpinnat
200
Yes, 111 months on the lees, then disgorged in June 2019. Don’t expect much brioche---this wine is fresh, as if you took a time machine back to 2012. An excellent example of why the fossil-ridden terroir of Penedès and lees aging are such a fine marriage. If you are going to indulge, why not try it next to its younger sibling ‘Imperial’.
2014 Gramona ‘III LUSTRO’ Xarel·lo | Macabeu, Corpinnat
120
86 months on the lees :) this is all from estate farm Font de Jui, 22 hectares stretching from the Anoia River to Mas Escorpi hill over looking the town of Sant Sadurní
2014 Gramona ‘Imperial’ Xarel·lo | Macabeu | Parellada, Corpinnat
75
About half the lees aging as Celler Batlle, Tonya and I ended up opening 3 bottles of this the day we visited the winery. First, after a horseback ride through the vineyards with Jesus, second with the Gramona team over lunch, and then for dinner because ‘wine not?’, we’re on a roll! There is about 8% Chardonnay as the D.O. Corpinnat allows up to 10% non-indigenous grapes.
2000 Recaredo ‘Turo d’en Mota’ Cava Brut Nature
200
After nearly a decade on lees, this single vineyard Xarello is the finest Cava currently available & could easily rival great Champagnes. This vintage predates the formation of DO Corpinnat which Recaredo was a founding member of.
2015 Recaredo ‘TERRES’ CORPINNAT Brut NatuRE Xarel·lo | Macabeu | MONASTRELL
95
60 months on the lees and all the usual suspects here. Beside the addition of a little Monastrell, what sets Recaredo apart from Gramona and Raventos is the mousse. It is soft from a freshly opened bottle creating a beautiful body and mouthfeel as the layers start to peel away into aroma. There is minerality, fruit and acid but in way more subtle shades than other producers.
Sparkling – WORLD WIDE
Another Rare opportunity! The beguiling wines from Costadilà are back! These are not your "Brunch Prosecco" I can assure you ;-)
The numbers Notate the elevation, in meters, of the parcel from which the wine comes from.
450 Slm
70
Initial fermentation and aging occurs only in stainless steel before it's bottled, and re-ferments with that vintages must.
2018 Red Tail Ridge Sekt Extra Brut, Riesling, Seneca Lake, New York
75
This wine was a huge hit during Nancy's visit this year. A great value for expertly crafted domestic method traditional. Get in here before 6pm Monday-Thursday order this wine and we will shuck a dozen oyster for you on us :) just ask your nicely.
NV Red Tail Ridge ‘Perpetual Change’, Brut Nature, Seneca Lake, New York
75
“Round. Like a circle in a spiral, like a wheel within a wheel...” Nancy Irelan’s masterpiece blend of mostly Chardonnay (57%) and Riesling (32.5%) low dosage and one of the most unique bouquets and flavor profiles I’ve ever had in a sparkling wine. Oh! And, a Velociraptor!
2018 CHAPUIS FRÈRES 'LE BULLES,' PINOT NOIR, BURGUNDY, France
75
Brothers, Jean-Guillaume and Romaine, grew up among the vines of Burgundy. They craft an incredible, dry, white cherry laden sparkler which is rare in this region.
Sparkling – Pétillant Naturel • MéthodE Ancestrale
2022 Domaine Renardat-Fâche, ‘Cerdon’, Gamay | Poulsard, Bugey, France
60
Bugey is one of the most obscure French appellations hidden among cow pastures and forest on the foot hills of the alps. This wine is a pink méthode ancestrale, not allowed to finish fermentation, leaving behind a semi-sweet but delicate, berry-scented delight that makes a delicious aperitif or perfect dessert pairing. This wine was was originally made for a specific restaurant, now closed, and is meant to be consumed throughout the year following the vintage. One of Chef Madalyn's favorites.
Matic ‘Mea’, Blaufränkisch, Lot 001, Štajerska, Slovenia
59
In this limited production aromas of white peach and tangerine prevail. Mea lot 001 is from the small amount of frankovka, (Blaufränkisch), Matic has in his 9 hectares.
2021 MOSSE Moussamoussette Rosé Pet Nat, Grolleau | Pineau d’Aunis | Cabernet Franc, Loire, France
59
Biodynamically farmed by Agnès, René and sons, Jo and Sylvestre their 17 hectares of 'Anjou Noir’, dark colored soils of slate and volcanic rocks drain into the Layon, a small tributary to the Loire that cuts through the shallow topsoil into the schist and sandstone subsoils. Stainless steel fermenters are filled with direct press juice then bottled with a crown caps to build up CO2 naturally before manually disgorged leaving some lees for texture.
2021 Brand ‘Shake & Wait’ Pet Nat Blanc, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) | Silvaner, Pfalz, Germany
56
In the limestone rich northern Pfalz, the Brand brothers village Bockenheim is quiet and more of a blue collar ag community compared to the popular Mittelhaardt region an hour south. Daniel and Jonas are always bringing us some of the best deals in wine while quietly pushing for less and less intervention. The result is always pure and light. Please do not take the ‘Shake & Wait’ literally but the brothers Brand do want you to gently mix the remnants of this partial discouragement into the rest of the bottle.
2019 BRENDAN TRACEY 'Barbarian' Brute Pet Nat, Muscat, Loire, France
65
Barbarian is a big body wine, super fresh with explosive mousse. Branden and his son Sean vinify wines from 10 different varieties that younger, more adept farmers harvest. Brendan Tracey has been around the block and his physical abilities are not what they used to be when he was opening for Black Flag and the Dead Kennedys in California. He was born in the US and his mother was French. Bouncing back and forth between here and there he began making wine in 2010 but let the vineyard life go in 2015 focusing on winemaking. He got that P.M.A!
French Whites – Loire Valley
2021 Domaine de la Pépière 'Briords', Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet Sèvre & Maine
45
Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix took over the domaine in 2020 after Marc Ollivier retired to Brittany. Rémi and Gwen are credited for converting to organic biodynamic viticulture, a squeeze in the use of S02 and push lees aging to new lengths not typical for a region where the négociants care about the kilo and not so much about the cru. Clos des Briords is a hillside site above the Maine river. The bottling is from a small part of oldest vines planted between 1950 and 1989 on the notably granitic soil, ‘granite de Thebaud’
2019 Domaine de la Pépière 'Clisson,' Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet Sèvre & Maine
60
Marc Ollivier is a titan when it comes to producing incredibly complete Melon de Bourgogne. While this is his last vintage before retiring to the North Coast, due to some catastrophic vintages, it will be the last we see for a few years. Take full advantage with a big plate of oysters!
2020 Complemen'Terre 'NoLem', Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet VDF
60
Complémen’Terre is from Son Manu and daughter in-law Marion of well know producer Jo Landron. After working for stints in the southern hemisphere the couple returned to their heritage in Muscadet but to make next level versions of the appellation’s coveted white wine. NoLem is from biodynamically farmed 15 year old vines vinified to reflect the terroir. This wine is generous with complexity, minerality and life!
2021 Agnès et René mosse 'magic of Ju-Ju,' Chenin Blanc, Val-du-Layon
60
One of our favorite families in the wine world. Chenin with body, nuance and so much fun to drink!
2018/19 Le Sot de L'Ange, Chenin Blanc, Azay le Rideau
70
I dig Quentin Bourse's wines, especially his Chenin and couldn't wait to get it back in the cellar. Leaning more to the peach, lime, and balanced residual sugar.
SOLD OUT 2019 Château de l'EperonNière, Chenin Blanc, Savennières
70
A classic example of Chenin and one that I have enjoyed throughout my career. The name may be difficult to say, so just ask for the Chenin Charles sold to Dave Chapelle many many moons ago!
2019 Domaine du Closel ‘La Jalousie’, Chenin BLANC, Savenniéres
99
Now, the president of Savennières AOC, the good mannered Evelyne de Pontbriand began a career teaching French to adults all over the world. As the latest heir to the Closel estate and with a love for botanicals and nature she quickly adopted organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyards. Each plot of the shallow warm topsoil is elaborated with a respect for the rhythm of fermentation and a modest touch in the cellar. Year over year this absolutely one of our favorite Chenin’s.
2021 Clos des Plantes, 'Poiesis', Chenin Blanc, Mont benault, VDF
99
Years ago I was recommended a specific wine a specific shop from Clos des Plantes and it blew our minds! We are over the moon that Grand Cru selections is finally in the Chicago market and we can share Olivier’s Lejeune’s amazingness with you. Clos des Plantes is the original vineyard where after 4 years of being ignored, Olivier brought it back to life. Poiesis is the name for another vineyard that Mr. Lejeune cultivates his enchanting Chenin Blanc.
2020 Bellivière 'Prémices,' Chenin Blanc, Jasnières
60
Fruit forward Chenin, and that is the goal with Premices. A barrel selection of the most fruit forward and the reason I fell in love with this grape oh so many years ago!
2019 Ludovic Chanson 'Les Perchers,' Chenin Blanc, Montlouis-Sur-Loire
60
Chanson's "Perchers" reminds me greatly of Mark Angeli's, Sansonniere Chenin's except for the fact I have more than two bottles in inventory and the price is as sexy as the juice itself!
2021 Brendan Stater-West Blanc, Chenin BLANC, Saumur
72
It must have taken some unrelenting persistence and charisma for Romaine Giberteau to let an American farm and vinify his wines. I think those attributes come through in Brendan’s own wine. While not farming and crafting magical wines for Romain, he leases a small section at the bottom of Les Chapaudaises in Bizay. Making Chenin struggle in a very thin layer top soil on soft limestone bedrock is how this laser sharp, mineral and acid driven wine come to be.
2018 François et Julien Pinon Silex noir, Chenin Blanc, Vouvray
60
Julian and father François have kept up their family heritage of eight generations dating back to 1786 by vinifying some of the most traditional and honest Chenin Blanc in the region. Silex noir refers to the coveted black flint soil famously expressed in this wine. The estate has been organically certified for 20 years and the wines are fermented with native yeasts in a mix of oak and stainless steel tanks to balance the many cuveés of still and sparkling produced. '18 Silex Noir is considered Demi-Sec, (off-dry) coming in at 22g/l of residual sugar and 3.23ph, (tech info they indulge chenin geeks with)
2017 François et Julien Pinon 'Les trois argiles', Chenin Blanc, Vouvray
60
the 17' Les trois argiles is also a Demi-Sec, (off-dry) but grown on clay and coming in with much less sugar at 17g/l, less alcohol but the same ph as the Chenin Blanc grown on flint
SOLD OUT--2021 Domaine Cherrier Pere at Fils, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre
70
Cherrier family are among the best producers of those famous little round wheels of goat cheese, Crottins de Chavignol. Founded in 1930 the domaine is 99% Sauvignon blanc with a 1% pinot for their rose. 25 acres of gravelly limestone soils, caillotes, minerality in their wine. 35 year old vines with grass between the rows are managed traditionally using organic fertilizers. Fermentation in enameled cement vats ensures purity of each vintage. Bottling is done early on in order to preserve the freshness and delicacy.
TRY AN AMERICAN VERSION!
2020 Bow & Arrow 'fool's gold,' Chardonnay | Sauvignon blanc, Willamette Valley, OR
60
You know when you're drinking a Bow & Arrow wine that it is going to have a Loire-esque vibe to them. "Fool's Gold" is winemaker Scott Frank's nod to a Cheverny blanc (50% Chardonnay, 50% Sauvignon Blanc). I must say, he nailed it! A crowd pleaser? No. A WOW-pleaser!
French Whites – Chablis & Burgundy
2020 Julien Brocard 'La Boissonneuse,' Chablis
70
Julien Brocard is the son of notable Chablis producer, Jean-Marc, and has taken over making wines for both labels. Julien concentrates on farming that combats the changing climate, slow oxygenation in large oak vats, which in turn expresses each of his seven places. Intense blend of peach, salinity, without being overpowering.
2020 Julien Brocard, Montée de Tonnerre, 1ER Cru, Chablis
130
The 2020 vintage was one of the best France has seen in years. Hard to believe with everything else going on that year. Be bullish if you love Chablis, there probably won't be any 2021s. Montée de Tonnerre sits next to the famous Grand Crus, yet is only a Premier. Which isn't all that bad because the price would be tripled if so.
2018 Duplessis, Vaillons, 1er Cru, Chablis
110
Gerard Duplessis wines always ooze with class. Vaillons has always been a favorite Premier Cru for me due to it's approachability with structure of the Grand Crus.
2020 Louis Chenu Pere & Filles, Aligoté, Bourgogne
68
In the heart of the Côte de Beaune, daughters of Louis, Juliette and Caroline Chenu bring us the amazing wine you’d expect from such a coveted appellation but at a value uncommon to the area. The family, 5 people, carry out the vineyard work themselves. They work organically, relying on native yeasts and neutral fermentation containers to convey a true reflection of the terroir. This bottling was limited to 1500 of which we have 12 more to share with you. Be sure to check out their Pinot on our list.
2020 CHAPUIS FRÈRES 'Rully,' CHARDONNAY, BEAUNE
100
Multi-parcel selection, with minimal intervention, kissed with used oak. This is a definitively "modern" white Burgundy laden with tropical fruits and brûléed pineapple.
2020 CHAPUIS FRÈRES 'Chorey-Lès-Beaune,' CHARDONNAY, BEAUNE
105
Single parcel, exhibiting more of the traditional profile one would expect from White Burg. Some lemon curd, some nutty, some tropical, equals pure enjoyment.
A selection of beguiling wines from the incomparable duo,
Alice et Olivier de moor:
2021 Aligoté, Burgundy
75
2021 'BOURGOGNE Chitry', Chardonnay, Burgundy
90
2020 'ROSETTE', Chardonnay, Chablis
144
2021 'l'Humeur du Temps,' Chardonnay, Chablis
105
2021 'sans Bruit', Sauvignon Blanc, St.Bris, Burgundy
75
2021 'LE Vendangeur Masqué CARAVAN', Chardonnay, Chablis
75
French Whites – Jura
Domaine Labet, Rotalier
I have mixed feeling about a lot of the wines shipped to the states from Jura but there are houses that just stand out from the rest with a kind of mystic nobility. Wines from those houses often skate the razor's edge from unicorn awesomeness to volatility. ‘The cool and colorful, part punk, part stoner’, Julian Labet, is at the head of winemaking and I can only imagine a lot of his personality gets translated into the wine. When a chardonnay omits red raspberry aromas something supernatural is afoot in Rotalier and it is not just Bathonian limestone. Julian took over from his parents traditional farming practices and began to focus more on organic treatments in the vineyard which are now managed by his brother and sister Romaine and Charlene. We have been allocated 3 exquisite Chardonnays this year from Tracy at Original Wine Company. Each is a different cuveé expressing a very specific terroir.
2020 ‘Fleurs’
120
From an assemblage of younger vines on blue marl, vinified by topping off the barrels to lessen the traditional oxidative style of winemaking common to the area. This is done to form a more pure expression of the moment and place of harvest rather than the time in barrel.
2019 ‘Bajocien’
130
From red clay over the rare Bathonian limestone, each plot is vinified separately and then blended.
2019 ‘En Chalasses’
140
From Lias era blue clay situated in three tiny plots exposed to the south called ‘terroir de marne’.
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2020 Domaine André et Mireille Tissot, Chardonnay En Barberton, Côtes du Jura
139
The work at Tissot is all in an effort to deliver you a unique wine and not just from year to year, from bottle to bottle. Industrial production kills an individual bottle’s identity and that is why the domaine is cultivated through bio-dynamic viticulture producing wines specific to each terroir. En Barberton is a west facing clay soil slope that kindles some stunningly exquisite wine.
2018, Dom. de la Touraize, savagnin, Arbois
120
I hate to be a broken record, but there's just not enough Labet anymore. However, Neil Rosenthal, the legendary importer that introduced the US to another legend, Jacques Puffeney, is incredible at finding the next great winemakers in Jura. The Morin's Savagnin is fermented "sous voile" so expect those brown butter/nutty flavors with intense acid you know and love!
French Whites – Other Regions
2019 Domaine des Masques 'Exception,' Chardonnay, Bouches Du Rhône, Provence
75
Aix-en-Provence is world renowned for it's production of stunning rosé. Can we now add Chardonnay to its CV? Only when Yves Cuilleron is making the wine.
2019 Dard & ribo, marsanne | rousanne, crozes-hermitage, Northern Rhône
105
A rare treat to be offered the white wine from luminaries, Rene-Jean and Francois. You'll probably have this introduced to you if your search includes "something from Burgundy."
2018 vernay 'coteau de Vernon,' Viognier, condrieu, Northern Rhône
130
The gold standard, the late Georges Vernay was the epicenter of Condrieu. His daughter has run with the mantle and hasn't missed a beat. This is an opportunity of a lifetime to experience the first vintage after his passing at a fraction of its typical cost. A Webster's exclusive.
2021 Eric Texier 'Adèle', Clairette, Côtes du Rhône
45
Eric Texier started off buying fruit form vineyards he deemed special and now owns much of the land where his wines are grown. He is a Bordeaux native whose never-ending quest for knowledge developed a lark of a hobby into being a stalwart amongst winemakers. Adèle is made from fruit collected in the Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban area that Eric has much to do with revitalizing. This mostly Clairette blend is not as large as you would think and Eric believes this is solely because of the site it is harvested from.
2021 Matin Calme 'Ose,' Carignan Gris | Grenache Blanc, Languedoc-Roussillon
70
Anthony Guix blends in a little Muscat á Petite Grains and Macabeu for a wild ride of a wine that will keep you on red alert with every glass.
2021 Bruno Duchêne 'Luna Blanc,' Xarel-Lo | Vermentino | Chardonnay, Banyuls
75
Another example of the ever increasing "Vin de la Communauté Européenne." Xarel-Lo from Penedes, Spain; Vermentino from France's south-central region, Aude; and Chardonnay from the Mâcon. Confused? No need to be. Pure rebellious vignerons turning their noses up at the establishment.
ITALIAN, Spanish, & Canary Islands Whites
Sono Montenidoli, San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy
“The true winemakers are the ones who know how to speak with the earth, the ones that know how to speak with the vines, the ones that are not crushing the earth because they are the boss, but they are the servants, they know how to speak with the leaves, they know how to go and help a grape to go on, and help a grape get ripe, and that is the way to make a wine”. These words are literally why Elisabetta Fagiuoli’s wines are all over our list. She knows how to stand alone in her stern, tough demeanor but never in a brutal or unpleasant way.
2020 'Tradizionale' Vernaccia di San Gimignano
51
The old way of making Vernaccia is where the namesake comes from for Tradizionale. Strict organic farming, a little skin maceration and fermented in glass lined concrete vats is apparently the tradition. This wine has been a favorite for years and always packs a lot of value for the cost.
2021 'Fiore' Vernaccia di San Gimignano
59
Elisabetta calls this a true Vernaccia or the purest expression of the DOCG. The fruit comes from the highest parts of the vineyard she considers as her Gran Cru. The free run juice goes directly to the stainless steel vats and after fermentation, refines on the lees for an extended time.
2018 Montenidoli 'Il Templar' Vernaccia | Trebbiano | Malvasia Bianca
60
Il Templar is made from free run juice released by piles of grapes as their skins split under their own weight and vinified in memory of the medieval knights, who lived at Montenidoli. The Templar Knights fermented white wines in wood and this elaboration has characteristics akin to white Burgundy.
2020 'Vinbrusco' Toscana, Trebbiano | Malvasia
49
Before Vernaccia took centerstage the peasantry of San Gimignano would make white wine from other varieties. Common folk would harvest a little to make wine before picking the the Vernaccia so they had something to drink. Limited to 3000 bottles, Elisabetta also makes a little of this historic wine. Vinbrusco does sit on the skins to add depth, but not to the extent where it would be considered orange wine.
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2021 Marco de Bartoli ‘VignaVerde’ Grillo, Marsala, Sicily
48
This wine has nothing to do with the vulgarized cooking wine the region has come to be known for. Marco, rest in peace, would tear up if you thought that for even just a second. This is 'Terre Siciliane'. Says so right on the side of the bottle. The Grillo at Contrada Samperi is there for Marco's (and now his children’s), next level Marsala wines but some is used in this pure expression of Marsala terroir. The land sits on ancient sea floor meters thick with sediment and fossils so it’s fitting to make a wine expressing such.
2020 Samuel Cano ‘Aire en el patio La Tarancona’ Airén La Mancha, Spain
40
Samuel Cano hand harvested this 100% Airen between rows of garlic and potatoes. The Cano family have been farmers for generations at the vertex of Cuenca, Toledo and Ciudad Real. It’s Samuel’s farming knowhow that produces a perfect grape capable of making his wines. There is no big production here as everything is done by hand. Only 8000 bottles are produced on a patio and rooms in an old house. The farm is at 800 meters above sea level. Yeasts from the vineyard spontaneously start fermentation during or after 15 days of skin contact in upright barrels without lids. I bet there is a little prayer involved too. (the crown cap is a complete mystery)
2017 CELLAR CREDO CAN CREDO, XAREL·LO, PENEDES, SPAIN
88
Another thing that stuck with me from our last Spain trip was drinking still Xarel-lo. It was all over the place and every bottle revealed unique expressions of the variety. Some of them knocked our socks off while others we just knocked back. I have been looking for a version for Webster’s since ever since and I am happy to say that we found it! Recaredo of Corpinatt DO makes a wine within the Penedes DO that fits the bill. It’s biodynamically farmed from single a family owned vineyard, hand picked and fermented from indigenous yeasts unfiltered. That being said this wine is clean, elegant and everything we want to share with you! They only made 1,633 bottles so try one of the 24 while we have them. Imported by Rosenthal distributed by Cream Wine Co.
German AUSTRIAN & American, Riesling, GRUNER & SILVANER
2017 SYBILLE KUNTZ KABINETT TROKEN, RIESLING, MIDDLE MOSEL, GERMANY
60
Sybille Kuntz represents Mosel riesling on our list because she is an archetype of the region. The Kuntz family has lived in the middle Mosel countless generations and Sybille herself grew up balancing up and down the 70% inclined vineyard slopes. She makes powerful wines with intense aromas. “Riesling is the Mosel and Mosel is Riesling” is Sybille's justification for only growing the single varietal in all of her biodynamically farmed 15 hectares. Some of the oldest vines are over 100 years and dive down 15 meters into the grey Devonian slate for nutrients. That minerality and the long growing season give this wine power and that addictive petrol riesling lovers relish.
2019 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstader Kabinett Troken Riesling, PFALZ, GERMANY
60
‘Rast’ich so rost’ich’ or if ‘We rest We rust’ is KR’s motto adorning every label of their expertly made wines. They are not talking about the aging potential here as these wines get better and better with time in the bottle. Their motto comes from the winery’s tradition for intensely hard work and strict honor to traditional farming and winemaking practices. KR is one of the oldest cellars in the Pfalz. The 750 year old ‘Steinacker’ or ‘stony acre’ produces the estate Kabinett Riesling which, after several passes by a family, who has been preforming the harvest for the last 30 years, the light green berries are spontaneously fermented from their own yeasts in neutral wooden casks. All of the wines are kept on the lees for at least seven or eight months before bottling where they continue to develop.
2020 j.b. becker, wallufer walkenberg, spätlese trocken, riesling, rheingau, germany
60
"Becker's wines will not taste like the other wines coming out of Rheingau and Hans-Josef Becker just doesn't give a rip."-VB An incredible display of stone, herb, with uncommon savory, earthy tones. Angular and austere, pondering and contemplative
2022 Emrich-Schönleber ‘Mineral’ Riesling Trocken, Nahe, Germany
72
This Riesling was a bit of a surprise for me when we visited Germany this summer and now looking back at my notes and Stephen Bitterolf's, (Vom Boden Imports Founder), words about if there was a single wine that inspired him to become a German wine importer it all makes sense. Everything we tasted with Frank Schoenleber was delightful and I want them all on the list! “Mineral” is a blend of younger vines from Grand Cru sites and 'a profound value that drinks well over its price point’
2020 Liepold Gässberg, Silvaner, TroCken, Franken, Germany
89
We hosted Peter Leipold's wines for one our first dinners in 2023 and the Silvaner from this site struck me with a level of complexity I wasn't expecting from Silvaner. It's no wonder Peter and others consider Gässberg as a grand cru vineyard.
2012 Sonntag Geschlossen, Trocken, Gruner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria
64
Markus has quite the collection of barrels in the cellar, some over 100 years old, and each so full that one may suspect the entire operation is a front for barrel preservation rather than a winery. After nearly a decade in 1900L barrique this wine has metamorphosed into quite the butterfly evoking a yellow gold liquid more akin to burgundy than ‘Gruner-land’.
2019 Brooks, Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon
45
An outstanding example of domestic Riesling from our friends at Brooks. Don't underestimate how much complexity is going on at this price range.
North AmericaN WhiteS
2020 Frenchtown Farms 'Pearl Thief,' Sauvignon | Roussanne | Semillon, North Yuba, California
70
Aaron and Cara Mockrish are atemtpting to accomplish what Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron) has for the last 20+ years, utilize what the Earth and weather provide them to make highly sought after wines. The North Yuba AVA of the Sierra Foothills, is as fascinating a terroir as the people that live there. These three expressions provide a comprehensive view of this thought.
2021 LADY OF THE SUNSHINE STOLPMAN VINEYARDS, SAUVIGNON BLANC, BALLARD CANYON, CALIFORNIA
75
I freakin' love it when a wine takes me by surprise and instantly becomes my new fav. I was especially surprised by Gina Giugni's Sauvignon Blanc from 15 miles east of the coast. Gina is a second generation biodynamic farmer and winemaker who started her ‘Lady of the Sunshine’ project with a focus on organic/biodynamic vineyard sites and additive/manipulation free winemaking. Inspired by old world techniques this wine is foot trodden, whole pressed, fermented from native yeasts in neutral french oak, aged on the lees for 7 months and bottled with out filtration. All that being said this wine is a clean precise elevation of Sauvignon Blanc giving it unexpected character and complexity I do not normally expect from the variety. Excellent work!
Skin Contact Whites (‘Orange’)
2021 Matassa 'Cuvée Marguerite,' Macabeu | Muscat, Roussillon, France
75
Tom Lubbe has the ability to make me snort laugh and excite my palate with stunning wine. This wildly aromatic wine has such impressive structure, that I was initially puzzled. It's an herbal explosion like freshly grinding herbs in a stone mortar; natty and fun
2021 Matassa 'Olla Blanc,' Macabeu | Muscat, Roussillon, France
65
Coume de l'Olla is a "lieu-dit" of Catalan varietals that gives you an entry into Tom's style. Not as brash as Marguerite or Alexandria, but great skin contact white wine!
2020 Dom. de la touraize 'zeste,' Savagnin, Arbois, jura, France
115
This is a rarity, but I promise, not a novelty, skin contact wine from the Jura! And it's really exciting stuff. Less about sous voile flavors and more about incredible texture. This wine can stand up to any food you put in front of it!
Rosé
2020 ANTXIOLA, HONDARRABI BELTZA, GETARIAKO TXAKOLINA, BASQUE, SPAIN
40
No matter the season, a bottle of Txakoli (Chaw-ko-lee), a porron, and a few friends is always the beginning for a good time!
2019 OCTAGONO, ROSA DEL PERU, VERGEL DE LA SERRE, SAN FELIPE, MEXICO
55
Wine selections in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico are bad. And, natural wines, nearly nonexistent. Trust me! So, it was with great delight that I had lunch with Webster's owners at an incredible restaurant and was introduced to the wines of Octágono. I fell head over heels in love! Then, I found out the owner, Marcelo Vera, lives in San Miguel! The wines are newly imported to Chicago. Every single wine made at Octagono is fermented in clay pots, much like the Georgian kvevri. The definition of zero intervention and absolutely zero sulfites added. Every bit as great as the orange!
2021 Viotti Munferie Rosato, Albarossa, Piemonte, Italy
48
Oh Piemonte… always showing off with your nuances of herb and spice. Fennel and Anise jump out of this rosé of albrossa, a red hybrid grape created in 1938. The fruit is manually harvested and fermented with wild yeasts and becomes cherry pink by letting the juice sit on the skins for only 6 hours.
2021 Ficomontanino 'Noble Kara' Rosato, Sangiovese, Toscana IGT
66
Noble Kara was one of Maria Sole's grandfather’s favorite horses and is considered by the family a real rosé made from fully ripe fruit. Made of fruit from three different parcels it spends 24 hours macerating on the skins before pressing and fermentation in stainless steel with no temperature control. This rosato is robust and layered, but an excellent afternoon refersher with snacks.
2022 Montenidoli Rosato, Canaiuolo, Toscana IGT, Italy
66
From a single tuscan variety this Rosé is one of our favorites year after year and when we run out I always find myself hopping around Chicgao slowing cleaning out other cellars meal by meal.
2020 FRANK CORNELISSEN 'SUSUCARU,' MT. ETNA, SICILY
70
One of the best vintages I've tasted of this perennial favorite. Its heady field blend that channels volcanic intensity into wild fruit.
2020 Frenchtown Farms 'Cecelia,' Syrah | Sauvignon | Grenache, North Yuba AVA, Sierra Foothills, CA
65
Aaron and Cara Mockrish are atemtpting to accomplish what Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron) has for the last 20+ years, utilize what the Earth and weather provide them to make highly sought after wines. The North Yuba AVA of the Sierra Foothills, is as fascinating a terroir as the people that live there. These three expressions provide a comprehensive view of this thought.
French Reds – Loire Valley
2021 Herve Villemade Rouge, Pinot Noir | Gamay, Cour-Cheverny
48
In the late nineties Herve was introduced to the wines of Marcel Lapierre and Clos du Tue-Boeuf realizing that he his lack of inspiration from his family's mostly insipid wines was because of the the chemicals they were using. In 2000, Hervé began converting the estate to organic farming and now his wines are alive like the ones that inspired him.
2021 Noëlla Morantin 'La Boudinerie,' Gamay, Touraine
55
Although Noëlla doesn't have the involvement in the Clos Roche Blanche vineyards like the two fellas that are now the caretakers, her Gamay does more to bring back that flavor memory of vintages past. This wine is an absolute gem!
2018 Noëlla Morantin 'Tango Atlantico,' Cabernet Franc | Côt, Touraine
60
Every sentiment I penned above regarding Noëlla's Gamay applies here, in spades!
2018 Les Jardins des Theseiis, Côt (Malbec), Touraine
90
I usually like to talk about the winemakers an their process but everywhere you look you quickly learn about Paul-André Risse and Anouk Lavoie-Lamoureux leaving their careers in biology to make wine. I was looking for a french Malbec to flagship the variety on our list and here is an elegant yet unadulterated elaboration of the variety. There is no oak, it is unfiltered and zero sulfur added leaving us deep purple wine with aromas of black cherry, blueberry and plum unmistakably Malbec
2020 Bellivière 'Rouge-Gorge,' Pineau d'Aunis, Coteaux-Du-Loir
75
Pineau d'Aunis is a peppery grape, but will not, as the translation implies, turn your throat red. One of the finest elaborations of this grape is you're searching from Gamay, or Pinot Noir alternatives.
2020 Olga Raffault ‘Barnebes’, Cabernet Franc, Chinon
65
From one of the sweetest couples in the wine world. We love in Cab Franc, from Chinon. These wines should be monumentally more expensive. The lesson here, lovely people aren't greedy!
2008 Olga Raffault ‘La Picasses,’ Cabernet Franc, Chinon
110
A rare opportunity to experience the phenomenal longevity of Raffault's Cab Franc! These library releases are highly sought after and never dissappoint!
2019 Domaine Le Petit Saint Vincent 'Les Poyeux', Cabernet Franc, Saumur-Champigny
105
Le Petit Saint Vincent comes from Dominique Joseph's younges Cabernet Franc vines just outside the village of Varrains. The soils are sandy. It is vinified and aged entirely in cement. The combination of the aging and it being Cabernet Franc from sandy soils makes it the most immediately approachable bottling from Dominique.
2017 Catherine et pierre breton 'clos sénéchal,’ Cabernet Franc, bourgueil
100
Across the Loire River from Chinon sits Bourgueil. If you seek an expression of Cab Franc that shows depth and precision, look no further.
2020 Clos du Tue-Boeuf ‘La Guerrerie', Côt | Gamay, Loire, France
69
Mentions of the site ‘le Tue-Boeuf’ can be found as far back as the middle ages because of the popularity of the wines amongst nobility and in some cases royalty. Thierry Puzelat is now at the helm of the estate in Les Montils and crafting a plethora of cuvées with his daughter Zöe. La Guerrerie is a flat, clay-rich vineyard planted in the 1980's
Try a North american Version!
2020 Limited ADDdition, cabernet franc, eola sPRINGS vineyard, Willamette Valley, OR
70
Old vine Cabernet Franc that represents itself closely to its Chinon and Bourgueil brethren. A tremendous blend of New World ripeness with Old World savory notes. The vines thrive in the rocky, thin volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills. Not to be missed!
French Reds – Beaujolais
(Gamay)(Crus listed from North to South)
Jérôme Balmet, 'Lemon Head' Gamay, VDF Beaujolais
65
Jérôme Balmet learned winemaking from Mathieu Lapierre and his Vaux-en-beaujolais of 50 year old vines sits on a blue granite soil akin to the Côte du Py in Morgon where Lapierre works. He also works a more concentrated soil just south of Brouilly that produces a heaver wine. Ballet farms organically with some biodynamic attributes in practice.
2020 Damien Coquelet (Co-Ka-lay), CHIROUBLES
54
When someone mentions the Crus, Chiroubles, Damien's wines are my north star. If this Crus was a child on The Brady Bunch, it would have a huge "Marcia, Marcia, MARCIA" vibe. See how it overcomes the "cute" finesse of Fleurie and everyone's "most popular, most beloved" Morgon.
2018 Antoine Sunier, Morgon
70
I always know when I'm drinking an Antoine Sunier wine because it's exhibits so many more savory notes than his contemporaries, in Morgon.
2017 Alex Foillard, Brouilly
110
Jean’s son, Alex, is sprinting with the family torch in non-intervention farming, minimal intervention, and bonkers good Bojo.
2019 Pierre Cotton, Côte de Brouilly
70
I gush with glee regarding Pierre’s wines and thrilled to finally see them come to Chicago! I begged. A LOT. See why.
2020 Vivanterre, Gamay, Moulin Au Vent & Brouilly
84
The blend of Gamay from pink granite Moulin Au Vent with the power of Brouilly combines for a "hearty" Beaujolais style. Check. This. OUT!
2020 DOM. SAINT-CYR 'TERRIOR DE BELLEVUE,' PIERRE DORÉES
45
There's a lot of rumors regarding new Crus in Beaujolais and this area south of Brouilly certainly could be. Raphael's grandfather planted this parcel in 1950. Single parcel, old vine Gamay at this price is becoming as uncommon as low gas prices.
French Reds – Burgundy
2020 CHAPUIS FRÈRES, Pinot Noir, Bourgogne
75
Tasty little gem from brothers, Romaine and Jean-Guillaume. Nice dark cherry, almond bark, and lengthy acidity. Check out their Chardonnay's on the menu as well!
Louis Chenu Pere & Fils
In the heart of the Côte de Beaune, daughters of Louis, Juliette and Caroline Chenu bring us the amazing wine you’d expect from such a coveted appellation but at a value uncommon to the area. The family, 5 people, carry out the vineyard work themselves. They work organically, relying on native yeasts and neutral fermentation containers to convey a true reflection of the terroir.
2021 'Borgogne Rouge'
75
Borgogne Rouge is a collection of pinot from the highest elevations across the Chenu holdings. Quientessiental burgundy aroma with some nuanced pepper make this an honest refection of their estate in whole.
2018 1er Cru 'Aux Clous'
129
Aux Clous, synonymous with clos or wall, is a south facing vineyard with deep red earth in the top quarter fortified by stoney ground below. The wine is tender and ready to drink. It has an elegent body and a georgous gemstone color.
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Domaine Rougeot Père & Fils, Pinot Noir, Meursault, Côte-D'Or
You are probably familiar with the wines from Dominique Derain as the quintessential Burgundy producer of non-intervention wines let me introduce you to Pierre-Henri Rougeot. Growing up in Burgundy instilled the "Burgundian" wine making mentality, but it was his exposure to the minimal, soft-touch producers in the Loire and Cahors that shaped his views on utilizing those techniques, in Burgundy. I am proud to offer two selections imported to the US by the great Josh Adler, who sadly lost his battle with pancreatic cancer earlier this year and taken from us way too young.
2017 'Les Vaux' Bourgogne
65
2017 'Clos des Roses' Pommard
125
French Reds – Jura & savoie
2020 Dom. de La Touraize 'Les Corvées,' Trousseau, Arbois, Jura
105
Unfortunately, there's just not enough Labet to last forever anymore. However, I highly suggest checking out the wines from André-Jean and Héléana Morin! This is stunningly gorgeous Trousseau that reminds me of the old Puffeney's.
2020 Camille et Mathieu Apffel 'Soleyane,' mondeuse, Savoie
55
Camille and Mathieu have created quite a stir in their burgeoning winemaking career. Soleyane is a nod to the original Domaine name from which they currently lease the vines. This is the ultimate "sweater weather" crinkly leaves and stew wine.
Alice bouvot, domaine de L'octavin
jura, france
There are simply not enough words to describe to you what Alice's wines exemplify, but if i had to choose one, it would be, committed.
2019 'les Roi des Cépages,' Riesling
90
2018 'Elle Aime,' Pinot Noir | Chardonnay
110
2018 'zerlina,' Pinot noir | trousseau
115
2019 'Dorabella,' poulsard
120
French Reds – Bordeaux
2020 Le Puy 'Duc des Nauves' merlot | Cabernet Sauvignon, Côtes de Bordeaux
60
A lovely light bodied Bordeaux from , (rare for the region), biodynamically farmed fruit.
2008 Maison Blanche, Merlot | Cabernet Franc, MOntagne Saint-Emilion
100
The flagship bottling is comprised from vines converted to organic farming in 2008 and certified biodynamic in 2013. Once it opens up in the decanter, look for meaty/savory notes. The '08s are aging beautifully, if you grew great fruit!
2017 CLOS DU JAUGUEYRON, HAUT-MÉDOC
95
The soils around Arsac, is comprised of clay, which leads to more fruit driven wines. Little oak is used, and not needed. Give this plenty of time in the glass and have us decant it for you. Outstanding!
French Reds – Northern Rhône
2020 Baptiste Nayrand ‘L’Astrale,’ Gamay, Coteaux du Lyonnais
60
Just outside of the vibrant city of Lyon sits a small hamlet, Millery. Baptiste only produces L’Astrale in the best vintages, so take advantage!
2020 Vincent paris, Syrah, Crozes-Hermitage
50
I've really become captivated with the recent proliferation of producers crafting Syrah that aren't always clunky, wound up tight, and unapproachable for 6-7 years. I love Syrah for it's delicate aromatics, as well as its more pronounced. Don't confuse "light" for balance.
2020 Les Depalude de Tartaras 'Mine Du rien,' Mornen Noir, Crozes-Hermitage
70
Ever had a Mornen Noir?? Odds are the answer is "no." And, that's why you're at Webster's! We have one from terrific vignerons. This is a breezy, grapey, cola, crowd pleaser. Esoteric grapes more often than not produce the types of wine that are perfect of wine drinkers of any ilk.
SOLD OUT 2020 Les Depalude de Tartaras 'La Chanse,' Syrah, Crozes-Hermitage
70
The complete package in regards to the chief grape, Syrah, of the region, from Deplaude de Tartaras. Checks all the boxes, plum, olive, violets plus concentration.
French Reds – Southern Rhône
2020 Éric Texier Brézème, Côtes du Rhône
60
Another important site that Eric had a hand in revitalizing is Brézème. The vineyard area was nearly forgotten maybe because of its chilly east bank position on the Rhône. None the less, he thinks the site has something that will make you happy. His winemaking is completely neutral to express solely how Syrah preforms on this particular limestone marl slope. In other words, organically farmed, hand harvested, whole cluster spontaneously fermented with a short and gentle maceration, aged in concrete no racking, no fining or filtration and a whisper of SO2.
2019 gramenon 'la segesse,' grenache, Vinsobres, Côte du Rhône
90
Michele Aubery-Laurent, a former nurse that preferred more natural remedies, started Gramenon with her husband, in 1990. Nine years later, she was tragically widowed and left to oversee the vineyards herself. She capitalized on her sense of sustainability and organics in effort to become one of the most sought after wineries in a very "points demanding" region. Without question one of the iconic wineries in Rhône!
2020 Domaine Vieux Lazaret, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
85
Accessible and immediately pleasurable; this is the wine version of wrapping yourself in a warm blanket; elegant, spiced red fruit.
French Reds – Languedoc-roussillon, Provence
2017, 2014, 2013 or 2011 ROC D'ANGLADE, Carignan | GSM, Vin de pays du Gard
65
I got to dazzle guests with this wine on our by the glass list. Astonishing to have had the opportunity to do this. I adore this wine so much I held back a case for the reserve list to monitor its incredible aging potential. But, you should jump on this one now! Very limited quantities of each vintage.
2020 Les serrals 'sur le zinc!' syrah | carignan, faugères
45
Early harvest Syrah, bearing more resemblance to Beaujolais than Faurgères, is blended with free-run Carignan creating a kaleidoscope of fruits, hint of olive, in an easy, everyday wine from Chloé Barthet and Frédéric Almazor.
2020 bruno duchene ‘la luna,’ Grenache | carignan, Languedoc-Roussillon
70
Bruno farms incredibly rugged vineyards of Côte Vermeille, in Banyuls. Not to be mistaken for a brooding/dark wine typical of the region. The wine is comprised of Grenache Noir, also Gris and Blanc, with the Carignan. As much as I love visiting France, I'm happy finally have this wine on our list!
2020 bruno duchene ‘odin,’ Tempranillo | carignan | syrah, Languedoc-Roussillon
80
A simply marvelous blend that truly encapsulates the region, and a look at what will likely become a common blend as global warming transforms the wine world in the years to come. More depth than the La Luna, yet just as playful.
2020 Matin Calme ‘Bonica Marieta,’ carignan | Grenache, Roussillon
75
Made exactly like his "Mano a Mano" that has been extremely popular here in the past. Bonica Marieta provides a bit more depth and contemplation. The vines are older and from a smaller parcel than Mano a Mano. Still possesses the same carbonic, lifted acidity, with crispy fresh berries and toned down herb finish.
Matassa 'Mambo Sun’ Grenache, VDF Rouge, Roussillon
105
From 50-100 year old vines growing in limestone and marl
2020 MARTIN TEXIER 'LE PREYNA,' CINSAULT | GRENACHE, VIN DE FRANCE
70
2016 Henri Milan 'Les Jardins,' Merlot, Provence
80
Born out of the foothills of the Alpilles Mountains, Milan's Merlot is A: intoxicatingly aromatic B: a triumph for the grape when it's not grown on clay C: a revelation!
German Red
2019 beurer, Portugieser, Württemberg, Germany
60
Joachim Beurer crafts his wines with the same personality that made him a champion BMX racer, the ability to float on air. Portugieser has the depth of Pinot Noir, the style of Nebbiolo, and the playfulness of Gamay.
2019 Roterfaden Lemberger Troken, Swabia, Germany
63
Olympia and Hannes Roterfaden, so far, my favorite collection of reds in Germany. They are working organic, incorporating some biodynamic practices like making their own treatments. Everything is done by hand on their stunning terraced vineyards along the Enz river. Called Blaufränkisch in Austria, Lemberger is widely planted here and most of it goes to the co-op for table wine. The Lemberger this couple produces is definitely elevated and drinks more like Cru Beaujolais and at a serious value.
Italian Reds – North to South
A rare opportunity to experience the iconic Nebbiolo wines from Giovanni Canonica!
2020 Langhe
95
2018 Grinzane Cavour
160
2018 Paiagallo
175
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2021 roagna, dolcetto, Alba, Piemonte
50
Dolcetto isn't known as an ambitious grape, but when grown as purely as Roagna's, with just a hint of neutral oak, you get a delicious value.
2016 roagna, Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piemonte
95
2016 was what could be referred as a "near perfect" or "vintage of the century." Roagna is one of my favorite producers, in Barolo, due to their respect and adherence to promoting the true characteristics of this noble grape. Absolute steal!
2016 Virna, Nebbiolo, Cannubi, Barolo, Piemonte
165
2018 Fabio Gea ‘Green Palma,’ Barbera, Alba, Piemonte
115
An unspoken axiom of all lovers of natural wine is looking for Gea’s wines on a list. Brilliant. Stunning. Fun. Captivating. Enchanting. There’s not enough adjectives for the juice Fabio puts into each bottle.
2020 Foradori, Teroldego, Dolomiti
60
Elisabetta Foradori is a hero to many of us in the wine profession. Her staunch belief in farming her vineyards holistically was once considered heresy by her peers, now can’t be emulated fast enough. There is but one Teroldego that stands above all others, Foradori.
2017 Monte dall’Ora 'sausto,' Corvina | Rondinella | Molinara, Valpolicella
75
This 'ripasso' style Valpoicella could be called a baby Amarone. I guess it’s fitting that my favorite “Valpolicella” is the elusive Monte dall’Ora.
2011 LA STOPPA 'CAMPOROMANO," BARBERA, EMILIA-ROMAGNA
75
Elena Pantaleoni adheres to the mantra "no wine before it's time," so don't be intimidated by with this much age. It's singing!
2020 Montenidoli, Colorino, Tuscany
60
Known only to “color” Chianti, it was by a dare that Elisabetta started producing this as a single varietal. And, it’s extraordinary!
2018 Ficomontanino 'Granomelo' Toscana Rosso IGT, Sangiovese, Tuscany
105
Maria Sole’s grandfather planted the Melogranino vineyard, (etymologically melograno or pomegranate in english), in the 60’s where she harvests the Sangiovese for this wine. The vineyard sits atop a hill overlooking the town Chiusi and was an island in prehistoric Italian sea. There is a high percentage of sand here but what is especially interesting is the proximity to the borders of Umbria and Lazio. Apparently you can distinguish each region by the different colors of the vegetation, the blanket of air and how the sunlight reacts to both as you take in the vista. Maria went to school at Slow Food’s University of Culinary Arts at Pollenzo. Her education no doubt inspired her breakaway from the status quo of winemakers in the area. She follows organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard, fermentation from wild yeasts, long soaking macerations, no filtering and aging in neutral vessels like concrete. A delightful departure from oak but still very Italian.
2021 Ficomontanino ‘Bulgarelli’ Sangiovese, Tuscany
75
This is Sangiovese! Not overblown by oak, the true characteristics of the grape are exemplified in this newcomer to the US market.
2017 Mantengoli La Serena Brunello di MONTALCINO, SANGIOVESE, TUSCANY
120
All the usual suspects here, Sangiovese also really expresses its terroir which takes center stage in Andrea’s Brunello. The soils in this area were churned and mixed for millennia by the sea and with an ancient volcano less than 10 miles away there is layer after layer to the resulting wine. The Montengolli soils are less packed than neighboring Cru vineyards which makes for a more approachable wines in their youth. No over-bearing oak showing precise balance and layers that really open up as it spends more time in the glass.
2018 SANGUINETO, VINO NOBILE DI MONTALCINO, Tuscany
75
A classic Vino Nobile farmed and produced by Dora Forsoni, a true steward of healthy land makes healthy grapes and superior wines. Aged for two years in oak, this is your quintessential Tuscan dark, yet delicate, smooth with soft tannin style you probably had on vacation.
2020 DAVIDE XODO (DAH-VEED ZO-DO), TAI ROSSO, Marche
45
Davide's style is just what you would expect, easy, drinkable, ecologically responsible farmed, and down right compelling. Yes, Tai Rosso is the grape. Think Garnacha from Spain, the grapes genetic match.
2020 occhipinti, frappat0, vittoria, Sicily
85
Arianna Occhipinti's career has a trajectory that only a rocket ship could relate to. Frappato is Sicily's native red grape and exudes a lot of the same characteristics as Gamay. As dynamic, and energetic, as the winemaker herself.
Spanish Reds
Bodega Akutain ‘Cosecha’ 2018 Rioja Alta, SPAIN 2018
52
Bodega Akutain was founded in 1975 by Juan Peñagaricano Akutain, who was then working as an engineer. He bought a 5-hectare vineyard along with a horse stable that he converted into a winery. Today his son Jon runs the daily operations managing their organically farmed vineyards. The wines are made with native fermentation in fiberglass and aging in used American oak barrells. A blend of mostly Tempranillo with some Garnacha, this is a lighter, old-school expression of Rioja. Plenty of red fruits come to mind—cherries, pomegranates, and plums—with a lovely tinge of menthol and a medium grip. Delicious and easy to enjoy. -mikey
Imported by Jose Pastor Selections, (Distributed by VineJoy, Chicago)
2019 Bodegas Bhilar ‘Phincas’, Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain
65
David Sampedro Gil, dogged believer in biodynamics and the harmonious link between Earth, the human being, the cosmos and the vineyards. This wine exhibits the powerful side of Rioja, without needing to add nefarious additives to achieve such results.
CASA AURORA
Named lovingly, after the legacy set forth by winemaker, Germán Blanco’s great-grandmother, Aurora Garcia. Besides planting vineyards, making wine at the home of the village priest, Aurora became the first female in the region to work at the local coal mine. Germán is committed to rehabilitating the vineyards his great-grandmother planted and bottling each as an individual expression of their location. We are pleased to offer the following selections:
2019 ‘Clos Pepin’
65
Field Blend of 80+ year old vines
2018 ‘Poula,’
126
Single vineyard blend of red and white grapes that include Mencia, Garnacha, Trousseau, Godello, Palomino
North American Reds - FUN GRAPES
Emme Wines
We were already impressed by her wines when Rosalind Reynolds visited for 3rd Coast Soif but we wanted to meet her face to face to get a glimpse of what she has going on in Sebastopol. Rosalind works closely with Pax Mahul at his facility he lends to Martha Stoumen, Patrick Cappiello and Carlo Mondavi. She is the master of logistics there, which is like spinning plates during harvests when she orchestrates receiving fruit for 5 different winemakers coming from scores of vineyards. I got the impression that her hard work for Pax gets her a special insight for what works best and access to some of the choice fruit. Her wines come from mostly dry farmed vineyards like Ricetti in Redwood Valley, ferment with natives yeasts, foot trodden, and vinified without filtration. Emme’s namesake is a nod to her grandmother. Each wine is treated as a unique creation even if she repeats the same elevagé from one vintage to another.
'Olivia' Valdiguié 2021
75
For fun!
‘Wynken, Blynken, and Nod’ Zinfindel 2021
75
This wine comes with a poem that Rosalind kindly requests you read while drinking this wine :)
'TINY FANCY' CABERNET FRANC | MERLOT 2021
99
Pine mountain vineyard handpicked by Rosalind and her partner Alex for whom the wine is named.
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2018 Colston BIBLIO 001 Pinot Gris | Pinot Blanc, Willamette VaLLEY, Oregon
45
Remember Matty? Maybe from Parachute when he was their founding sommelier or maybe way way back when Mr. Colston was cutting his teeth at Webster’s and Rootstock. Regardless, we love seeing where Chicago alum graduate too, especially when they just keep going further and further down the rabbit hole! Biblio is just that. As a wine director, Matty became intrigued with the “potential and versatility of the Pinot Gris grape when made in the red wine”. Not Rose and not orange 001 is a light red food wine made in the Italian farmhouse ‘Remato’ style that Friulian wine makers continued even after Santa Margarita popularized the country club version we know as Pinot Grigio today. All of the fruit is from Demeter certified bio-dynamic grapes farmed by Oregon legend Moe Momtazi and bottled at Day Wines. If you tried it on release it’s time to revisit as 001 came into maturity about 3 years after bottling.
2020 Limited ADDdition, cabernet franc, eola sPRINGS vineyard, Willamette Valley, OR
70
Old vine Cabernet Franc that represents itself closely to its Chinon and Bourgueil brethren. A tremendous blend of New World ripeness with Old World savory notes. The vines thrive in the rocky, thin volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills. Not to be missed!
North American Reds - Pinot NoiR
2019 Brooks 'janus,' Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
75
The exquisite Janus, the Roman god of beginnings and endings, is winemaker Chris Williams blend of Brooks best vineyard sites across the Willamette Valley. The first label founder Jimi Brooks produced in 1998. This wine is not only made from grapes, also heart and love!
2018 andrew rich 'marine sedimentary soil,' Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
75
2018 andrew rich 'volcanic soil,' Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
75
I find Andrew's wines to be some of the most thoughtful, flavorful, and elegant, as any I've ever had. This is the fourth vintage that anfrew has expressed the individual soils found in the Willamette Valley and expressing them through his Pinot Noir. The difference in these wines is unique, fascinating, and a study in Oregon terrior. Buy both and see how!
American Reds – cabernet sauvignoN or Blends
2019 Time Place Wine Co., Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, California
75
Jamey Whetstone sources grapes from all over the valley, but the largest percentage comes from Yountville. Not just another "Napa Cab," the winery is a member of California's oldest, and rigorous certification, "Lodi Rules,"
2019 Inconnu, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California
90
Laura's Cabernet Sauvignon, for me, is a direct reflection of the winemaker herself. Unwavering, unflinching, direct, and full of power. One of the few labels in and around Napa that challenges convention.
2016 Sinskey 'POV,' Cabernet Sauvignon | Merlot | Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, California
110
The blend changes yearly to express the "point of view" that Robert and his winemaker feel each bottle should express. A pioneer in Napa, and Carneros, farming organically and biodynamically, Sinskey vineyards are representative how bio-diversity and competition create healthy soil.
American Reds – Rhône Grapes
Helen Keplinger’s meteoric rise up through the winemaking ranks has seen her at the helm of some prestigious wineries, in Napa Valley. However, her own wine label reflects her love of Grenache, from her days making wine in Priorat, Spain. It’s a rare treat to be able to offer her wines at this price! When I first started working with them, I was allocated 3 bottles each! And, they were expensive. Take full advantage.
2016 Keplinger ‘Lithic,’ Grenache | Mourvèdre | Syrah, Amador County, California
100
2016 Keplinger ‘Sumō,’ Petite Sirah | Syrah | Viognier, Amador County, California
100
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2018 Ridge 'gonsalves,' Mataro, Contra costa, California
75
I have been honored to be a part of Ridge's "legacy" buyers program for many years. This has afforded me the opportunity to purchase some of the more unique wines this illustrious winery produces outside of Zinfandels and Monte Bello. Mataro is a synonym the Australians use for Mourvedre, the inky dark skins give the appearance of something dense, yet balanced in acidity and tannins. Jump on this gem!
2021 Frenchtown farms 'Chasse Patate,' Mourvèdre | Grenach, North Yuba, Sierra Foothills, California
60
Aaron and Cara Mockrish are atemtpting to accomplish what Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron) has for the last 20+ years, utilize what the Earth and weather provide them to make highly sought after wines. The North Yuba AVA of the Sierra Foothills, is as fascinating a terroir as the people that live there. These three expressions provide a comprehensive view of this thought.
2019 TROON 'Côtes du Kubli', SYRAH | GRENACHE, APPLEGATE VALLEY, OREGON
79
Troon sits on the Kubli bench a plateau sitting high above the Applegate river. It's surrounded by the Siskiyou mountains and just one of the most stunning back drops for any domestic vineyard. The direction is Rhone here and this is their flagship expression.
2017 Clos Saron 'Stone Soup,' Syrah, North Yuba, Sierra Foothills, California
140
To anyone that has not previously had a Clos Saron wine, one would think "California, warm weather, close to Oregon, of course this its what Syrah would taste like." And, that would sadly be the quintessential "judging a book by the cover." Air ball. The decomposed granite (red clay) the vines grow in sound perfect for Syrah. However, it gets so hot the vines shut down during the prime weeks ripening should be occurring. Not 2017, an abundance of rain helped control the excessive heat and the result is the stunning, medium (not heavy) bodied, deeply nuanced 2017 "Stone Soup." Endless aging potential!
Southern Hemisphere Reds
2021 Louis-Antoine Luyt ‘El Mismo Pais’ Maule Valley, Chile
48 1L Bottle
Luyt, a french native of burgundy makes El Mismo as his take on Beaujolais Nouveau. The pais (a.k.a mission) is from 200 year is dry farmed, sandy soil, organically farmed vineyards not normally used for producing terroir driven wines. This one is a soft tannin chill-able red, so you can ask your server to bring it in an ice bucket but I'll warn you it wont last long among friends.
2020 aslina, cabernet sauvignon, western cape, south africa
65
Ntsiki Biyela, South Africa's first female head winemaker, has amassed an impressive résumé in her 20 plus years in winemaking. Her training in France, as well as consulting, is apparent. The wine is nothing if not meticulously well crafted. Flavor profiles you would expect from the Medoc that typically costs 3X this much. If this were stock, get in early, because the hype is real!
Emerging, Historic, Not to be Overlooked Reds
2022 Matic ‘Frankovka’, Blaufränkisch, Štajerska, Slovenia
48
Named after the dialect for Blaufränkisch and adorned with a wild boar on the label, Matic suggests fun in the bottle as both are in the wild. Štajerska is located in the so-called ‘mountain wine zone’ known for crisp steely whites so this is a nice juxtaposition expressing dark and red fruits and a deceptively long finish that can be tamed by serving it on a chill, which we do :)
2018 Monastery Tvrdoš, Vranac (Vrah-nahts), Trebnje, Bosnia-HerzegoviNA
45
Looking for a dark, rich, smooth red, your search is over. Aged for over two years in 100+ year old Monastic barrels.
2016 Tchotiashvili, Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia
50
Saperavi literally translates to paint, dye, or to give color. This brilliant wine is fermented in traditional qvevri which produces a unique flavor and texture that has no equal.
2020 Vinas Mora 'Andreis,' Babič, Croatia
70
Babič is a wonderful grape that displays an incredible array of flavors. What I most enjoy about Vinas Mora's is there ability to broaden the profile with light and dark fruits with balance acidity, and less big clunky fruit common from others from Croatia.
Large Format Bottles
2016 PIERRE PAILLARD ‘LES MAILLERETTES’ CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE 1.5L Magnum
275 (magnum – 1.5L)
Les Maillerettes is a very small, (less than 1 acre), grand cru vineyard where the Paillard family grafts their most prized pinot noir for the rest of their holdings. Less than 200 magnums are produced from this plot with intention to be shared with friends and colleagues of the Paillards. Pop this big bottle with some friends at Webster’s and consider yourself part of the family! We only have 2!
Imported by Robert Houde Wines, Chicago
2019 Raventos DE NIT Xarel-lo | MACABEU | PAReLLADA | MONASTRELL, CONCA DEL RIU ANIOA, SPAIN
120 (magnum – 1.5L)
The perfect party wine for groups. Pepe added 6% Monstrell from a terraced plot which he says marks the personality of this wine.
2020 Domaine de la Pépière 'Clisson,' Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet Sèvre & Maine
120 (magnum – 1.5L)
Marc Ollivier has passed on the domaine to Rémi Branger and Gwénaëlle Croix after many year of mentoring the couple. Marc will be the first to admit that working with new people and new energy had a hand pushing Pépière in the direction and popularity the estate is/has now. 2020 is their first official vintage on their own and despite the year being so tumultuous, they managed to craft a another lovely Clisson Muscadet!
2018 PIERRE COTTON 'LE PRÉ,' GAMAY, BROUILLY, BEAUJOLAIS, France
140 (magnum – 1.5L)
2021 DOMAINE LAPIERRE ROCHE DU PY MORGON CAMILLE, BEAUJOLAIS, FRANCE
160 (magnum – 1.5L)
Little hint of smoke, not in a bad way but a nuanced mezcal way. On August 17, 2021, a devastating forest fire broke out, with flames as high as 20 meters, in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur near Saint-Tropez. This happened just a couple of weeks before 2021’s later than usual harvest. Mediterranean breezes make it all the way up to Beaujolais which add to its unique terroir and in this case a slight addition to the 21’ vintage of Camille. Everything else that is supposed to be present in the wine is there. It’s a little muted as it is still in infancy but I have no problem enjoying it right away.
2014 Chateau Falfas Cotes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France
142 (magnum – 1.5L)
From one of the 4 great crus of Côtes de Bourg this wine is a little bit of misfit. It’s on the same classic terroir of clay and silica soil on top deep limestone bedrock of fossilized oysters but Véronique vivifies her wine with a hands off approach where winemakers make wine with an almost alchemic intervention common to Bordeaux. It’s no wonder that she grew up winemaking in Saumur where minimal interventionism is normal. This is a authentic terroir-driven elaboration of traditional right bank varieties.
2020 MATHENY, TROUSSEAU, Arbois, JURA, France
250 (magnum – 1.5L)
The grapes came from legendary vigneron, Jacques Puffeney's vineyard! An amazing opportunity to still be able to experience "Le Puff's" legacy from protégés, Elise et Emeric Foléat. This is a must drink!
2015 Dard et Ribo, Syrah, Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône, France
180 (magnum – 1.5L)
Iconoclasts from the outset, René-Jean and François sought to buck the trend of heavily extracted, fat Syrah overburdened by oak. Their wines still exhibit all the savage nature of Syrah with a deft, wild elegance.
Library Whites
1986 Leth, Roter Veltliner, Wagram
170
Proof positive that Roter is built to age, this delight is smoky and briny and umami-ey, w/bonito & mango.
1993 DOMAINE OLGA RAFFAULT CHINON BLANC ‘CHAMP-CHENIN’
80
Unicorn Alert! From the 93’ vintage this Chenin has been expertly stored in the cellars at Olga Raffault. The Domaine cultivates mostly Cabernet Franc with the exception of a single plot being devoted to exceptional Chenin. Champ-Chenin cuvee plays hard to get in it’s youth but with age this cougar comes at you with a surprisingly youthful body and acid. A true moment for a a great wine and it is very limited so don’t miss out. roar...
Library Orange
2012 Bernhard Ott ‘Qvevre,’ Grüner Veltliner, Wagram, Austria
200
This gorgeous rarity spent 8 months in underground amphora on its skins, but isn’t amber-hued; instead, it has a shocking liveliness and clarity, and is one of the most unusual and essential Grüners you’ll encounter.
2003 Gravner, Ribolla Gialla, Friuli, Italy
230
Hazy in color, finely tropical and lipid in flavor, this amphora-aged wine quickly develops great complexity.
2000 Radikon ‘Fuori dal Tempo,’ Chardonnay | Sauvignon, Oslavje, Venezia-Giulia, Italy
260
After 35 days with skins, 3 years in barrel & 9 years in bottle, this wine has layered, melismatic textures that strike the palate as polyphonic music does the ear; an unforgettable succession of independent melodies.